Aqua-Doc...please tell me this thing doesn't work

[SoCalBoo]

I was just in the pool store looking at the price of sequesterants to help me with my scale problem (Cal. 450 and rising slowly). The pool store guy (aparently the owner) and got to talking, and he said he might have a solution, but I've got to think outside the box. I was up for it. He shows me these magnet clamps. Aqua-Doc is the product. He says they turned away the salesman for about a year before they finally decided to try the product on his own pool...and it worked.

Supposed to keep scale at bay.

He said you'll see the results after 3 to 4 weeks...no more scale on spillover.

He offered 90 day, no questions asked, full return if it doesn't work.

The product also claims to reduce calcium hardness, which I find even more unbelievable.

So, anyone have any info on this stuff? Already looked online and website is typical snake-oil type stuff. But no reviews I can find anywhere else.

[aylad]

I know nothing about them, never heard of them, but if it sounds too good to be true (and too easy!) it most likely is............

Janet

[SoCalBoo]

Yep, that's why I'm posting. Many here that have been pool owners far longer than I have and have much, much more experience.

Supposed, it works by adjusting polarity in the water. This gave me an additional concern of effects on my SWG.

It mounts at the end of the line, on the return before it goes to the pool.

There has been a push around SoCal where our water is very hard, to not use water softeners because the salt/brine method is ineffecient (roughly 2 gallons of brine waste for every 1 gallon produced) and it pours salty water into sewers which causes issues for treatment plants.

The Aqua-Doc seems to be a product in reaction to this. Looks like the biggest seller is one for the home to soften water as it goes into the home on the main line.

IF it works, it is an intriquing product. Just concerned about the magnetic fields industrial magnets produce, and any effects on electronics/wiring/SWG cells and sensors.

[aquarium]

It's listed at The Bunkhouse as, well, bunk.

Water Magnets

[duraleigh]

SoCal,

If scaling is the issue, keeping your pH in line should prevent that. That CH level should not cause scaling unless the pH has previously been high (above 8.0).

Are you sure it's scaling and not salt crystalization?

[CarlD]

Snake Oil. Skyhooks, smoke-shifters, spirit mediums....A guy just got banned for pushing one of these electro-magnet systems.

They don't work. There's no mechanism for them to work. There's no scientific backing. They are good for moving money from your pocket to the seller's.

Don't let yourself be a pigeon. Save your money and follow Dave S.'s advice: Maintain proper pool chemistry and you won't ever have a problem. It's just not that hard--and we all try to make it a lot easier for you!

Save your bucks for pool toys--and a good test kit!

[SoCalBoo]

Duraleigh, scaling is the issue. I can live with the spillover scaling (but would prefer to not have to ), but don't want to damage my SWG scale and/or wear it out prematurely. Yes, I did have a Ph issue before finding this website and the good folks here, but it has been under control for 3-4 months, and the scaling still occurs. I'm not sure what salt crystilazation looks like, but my salt levels were kind of low up until a few weeks ago, so I doubt that. Also, it slowly came off with diluted muriatic when cleaned, if that helps. I feelin pretty confident it is scaling.

So if my Ph has been good for 3-4 months, should the scaling stop at some point, with a Cal level of 450 or so and slowly rising? If so, then why do I still get the scaling?

CarlD, except for a high calcium level, everything is in check for a few weeks now, and everything buy CYA (it was low) and salt (it was low) has been good for 3-4 months (i.e. FC/CC/TC; Ph; TA).

I am leaning towards high calcium, which means either a sequesterant or drain. Right?

[duraleigh]

SoCal,

Yeah, I tend to agree that sounds like scaling to me, too. Salt would be water soluble.

Do you have any thoughts as to why your CH is rising? Unless your fill water is higher than 450, or you're chlorinating with Cal Hypo, I can think of no reason.

Is the scaling increasing or could it be residual from the high pH days.

To my knowledge, a sequestrant may or may not keep the Ca in solution, but it should have never precipitated in the first place if your pH is in line.

A complete set of test results might yield some clue but, eventually, you must identify that source of Ca and eliminate it.

[SoCalBoo]

Thanks for the follow up dave. Here are test results from the last week and a half. Pool has been very consistent, save for the Cal., since I got Ben's test kit a few weeks back and actually know what the levels are at:

FC 3.5 - 4.5 (I target 4.0)
CC 0
TC 3.5-4.5
Ph 7.2-7.4 (I target 7.2 but am very careful not to overshoot...7.2 works well because it provides buffer against SWG pushing ph up)
Salt 3200 (just where I like it)
CYA 45ish (always tough to read with the black dot)
Cal 450 (was 430 about 3 weeks ago when I last tested it...thats why I say slowly rising. guess it could be constant and just a testing error. i'll know when I test again in a week or two...with levels that high, takes a lot drops to get the level, which means I'd have to buy more much sooner than expected)
TA 90-110 (I target 100 to buffer against lower TA due to constantly adding acid)

22,500 inground, plaster, 2 hp pentair for spa, 1.5 hp pentair for pool, solar, mini max NT heater, poolpilot digital SWG with the big cell (up to 45k gallons), 60 sq ft. pentair DG filter

As far as calcium rising, fill water (off irrigation line) is in the 190-200 range, and also use water from house to fill manually, which is at 10-20 range due to water softener. It is hot and I do have evaporation like everyone else, so even with using house water, the calcium would be expected to creep up. Even more so if it is off the auto-fill line (irrigation line). We do have some splash out, so that helps dilute somewhat, but I've got to believe I am losing more to evaporation than splash out, which means, to me, it is more likely than not that the cal level will creep up slowly.

My pool is also 9-10 months old, so that might help explain the high initial levels. Unfortunately, I didn't come accross this site but a few months ago, and the pool stores never tested for calcium, nor did the start up crew.

Never used Cal-hypo.

If it is the 'new pool' factor, I'd be inclined to ride out the high calcium level for a while longer. Anyone know how long I can expect the plaster to effect calcium levels...i.e. will it eventually stop pushing the levels up? when? Would then consider partial drain and refill. My pool company told me that I should not drain pool for at least a year after initially filling or risk damaging plaster. that means i've got to wait until Sept at the earliest (if I am to believe them ). Unfortunately, the house water is only good for maybe 500-800 gallons a day until it drains soft water capabilities, and then we are back on the irrigation line water, which is 190-200. That means I'd probably need to drain over 80% of the water (if calcium level is currently at 450 and fill is at 200) just to get the new water at 250. That kind of sucks. Oh well. I am not sold on sequesterants. At least it will be cheaper to drain and refill (and rebalance...that's a lot of salt and stabilizer I've got to purchase) than to buy a new SWG cell after it gets worn out by scale.