EZ, you are correct in thinking that it's a 'lube' port. You can teflon tape an appropriatly sized screw and plug it.
I have a 3-port Gray Jandy valve that combines skimmers and main drain and sends it to the pump. The valve has a "hole" of some sort in the side. I originally thought this was some sort of connection for a pressure gauge but now think that this must be a lube-port. Anyway, water is coming out of this hole in a pretty steady stream. I've searched jandy.com and Googled but can't find anything that tells me how to lubricate the valve or what kind of seal/plug should be keeping the water from leaving the valve. Help!
18K gallon free-form gunite pool, Sta-Rite S7D75 DE filter, 2-speed Sta-Rite Max-E-Pro pump, Pool Pilot Digital SWCG, Heat Siphon SX3.25 heat pump, Dolphin Deluxe 4 robotic
EZ, you are correct in thinking that it's a 'lube' port. You can teflon tape an appropriatly sized screw and plug it.
Luv & Luk, Ted
Having done construction and service for 4 pool companies in 4 states starting in 1988, what I know about pools could fill a couple of books - what I don't know could fill libraries
Thanks for the info! How often does a valve need to be lubricated? I'll
dig through the previous owner's spare parts bag and see if I can identify a
screw for it.
18K gallon free-form gunite pool, Sta-Rite S7D75 DE filter, 2-speed Sta-Rite Max-E-Pro pump, Pool Pilot Digital SWCG, Heat Siphon SX3.25 heat pump, Dolphin Deluxe 4 robotic
The part you need is a Jandy grey valve grease cap. It is a plastic knob that screws into the hole on the side of the valve. You can get them from most pool supply stores or online. The valves are supposed to be lubricated every 6 months to a year with silicone lube (same stuff you use on o-rings).
Here is the procedure from the jandy valve manual that I have:
1. Turn off all pool/spa equipment.
2. Rotate valve handle so the OFF on the handle is
over the word GREASE on the valve body.
3. Unscrew (counterclockwise) and remove the
black cap of the grease fitting.
4. Fill cap with lubricant (Jandy Lube).
5. Replace cap on fitting and turn in (clockwise)
until all of the lubricant has been forced into the
valve.
6. Use manual operation to move the handle from
side to side to spread the lubricant across the
seal.
7. Reset the valve handle to its original position
and start equipment.
Once a year the valve should be disassembled
and the O-ring and valve body inspected for damage.
Thoroughly lubricate the square seal and the O-ring.
Reassemble the valve.
Hope this helps.
Retired pool store and commercial pool maintenance guy.
EZ, we may have had a little misunderstanding. I was assuming that the ~ 1" black knob had broken off, resulting in a leak - if that's the case, my advice on the screw will stop the leak. Is the black rubber 'shaft' still sticking out of it? (it's really small) If it is, don't do the screw thing unless the leak is large or you have no hope of finding a replacement 'lube knob'. (I believe I have a couple on our service van that we salvaged from a replumb).
As for how often to lube it, whenever the valve becomes hard to turn.
Luv & Luk, Ted
Having done construction and service for 4 pool companies in 4 states starting in 1988, what I know about pools could fill a couple of books - what I don't know could fill libraries
EZ, I did in fact have the grease fitting in the van. I brought it home and now it sits on the computer desk, if you would like it, pm me with an address to send it to and I will mail it out next week.
(NOTE * I am NOT in the parts business!! - I offer this because I happen to have one and you can't find any other source - obviously I do not expect any money {not even postage}, I offer this to help you with your problem. As I said before, this is a used part that I salvaged when I replumbed a system, so it cost me nothing and I stole from no one (it would have ended up in the dumpster with the rest of the plumbing we removed if I hadn't taken it off). The assembly appears to be sound and in good working order and I offer it to you because I can't find the part listed elsewhere either and you shouldn't have to replace the valve when I have the peice you need to keep yours opperational)
Luv & Luk, Ted
Having done construction and service for 4 pool companies in 4 states starting in 1988, what I know about pools could fill a couple of books - what I don't know could fill libraries
Waste, just FYI, I googled 'jandy valve parts' and came up with several online retailers that sell the grease cap. It is pricey, however!
Retired pool store and commercial pool maintenance guy.
Thanks for the extra info, all! I'll try to investigate tomorrow morning and see what's what. Right now there's no "cap" at all - just a hole that doesn't even look to be threaded and some black plastic-looking stuff inside (it's hard to see with the constant flow of water). Maybe the black stuff is what's left of the old cap...in which case I'll need to extract that before inserting a new cap. More to come!
18K gallon free-form gunite pool, Sta-Rite S7D75 DE filter, 2-speed Sta-Rite Max-E-Pro pump, Pool Pilot Digital SWCG, Heat Siphon SX3.25 heat pump, Dolphin Deluxe 4 robotic
I have the same problem right now. There is black stuff in the hole but it is causing my water pressure to decrease. When I cover the hole with my finger the pressure goes up.
What should I do?
Fog, other than the valve, how're you doing - it's been a while-?
The imediate concern is to somehow plug the leak to prevent any damage to the system (sounds like it's a suction side valve). All my advice from EZ's ? still stands, tefloned screw, etc - including the fact that I have the replacement part sitting in front of me (EZ never took me up on my offer to send it to him, do you want it?). Or you can do the Google search that Evan gave and find one.![]()
Good luck with it, if you need any other help, ask away!
Luv & Luk, Ted
Having done construction and service for 4 pool companies in 4 states starting in 1988, what I know about pools could fill a couple of books - what I don't know could fill libraries
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