Pool being stubborn--green, high pH, no chlorine after daily work--HELP please

[BethL]

Thanks again. I'm ordering the good kit today but in the meantime went to the hardware store and bought the 4way kit they had, figuring maybe it was better than the strips until the good one gets here? The nearest pool store is almost 40 miles and I have to drive right past one Monday so will take some then. I tested after vacuuming but before adding a gallon of liquid chlorine.
The chlorine reading scale on this one only goes up to 3.0 (a light yellow), the color I got was deep primary yellow so my chlorine must be very high?
The pH test came out to 7.6
The "acid demand" test determines how many half-pints of muriatic acid I should add; 3 drops means I should add 1.5 pints of muriatic acid (though it cautions not to add more than one pint per day). I've seen this stuff at the hardware store but don't think I've used it.
Total alkalinity reading 10 drops=100 ppm
Unfortunately,now I see it does not test CYA.

So I got into my green pool and vacuumed it, brushed the walls and ladder and poured in another gallon of liquid chlorine. I did notice that the chlorine I bought today was 10% and I swear the stuff I got at Walmart was only about 6%. At any rate, I'll be interested to see what a "real" test reveals.

[aylad]

How's your water looking now? You can force the OTO chlorine test to read higher levels of chlorine by using the dilution method outlined here http://www.poolsolutions.com/gd/how-...d-testkit.html until the good kit comes in. It's still a ballpark, but much better than the strips. If the water is still green, then you need to get that chlorine level back up to the 12--15 ppm range and hold it there--in a 10K gallon pool, one gallon of 6%bleach will raise your FC by 6 ppm, just as a reference.

Janet