Chemical Help

[PoolDoc]

No!

Go ahead, and get going before your pool turns into a green swamp!!

[mreesept]

Ok Taylor 2006 arrived and I put one dose of .5 gal muratic acid and 3 gal 6% bleach and results as follows:
( I have a 18' by 36' in ground with about 22,000 gal.

PH 7.6
TA 240
FC 1
CC 14

CYA -???? I could not get a reading. I put it the whole way to the top and no change

[PoolDoc]

Sounds like your pool may have experienced the scourge of CYA eating bacteria -- it's fairly common. The real problem is that sometimes -- we don't know when -- the bacteria 'poop' ammonia back into the pool, as the by-product.

If you didn't make a mistake in your test results, that is almost certainly the problem (FC=1; CC=14; TC= 1+14 = 15). If this is happening your pool will likely have a strong 'chlorine' smell, from the chlor-amines that have formed.

Unfortunately, it can take an ENORMOUS amount of chlorine to get rid of the ammonia. But, there's no other solution that doesn't cost even more. So, do this:

1. Let the pH go back up; it will do so on it's own.
2. Keep the pump running 24/7
3. Adjust the eyeballs so they 'riffle' the pool surface.
4. Add 3 more gallons of bleach, wait 2 hours, and retest. If the CC has gone even higher, we've found the problem.

Once you've ID'd the problem, the only thing for it, is to keep chlorinating -- but let the pH stay high (7.8 - 8.0). Try to reach 25 ppm CC, and then hold it there. After a while (and a lot of bleach) the CC should begin dropping and the FC should begin rising.

If you have a Sams Club, it may be cheaper to buy a 50# bucket of dichlor or 40# bucket of trichlor, and use them. That will not be as hard on your liner, because those will be adding CYA. Trichlor would be best, especially if you can put it in the skimmer.

BUT, if you do this KEEP THE PH HIGH. Use borax, if you need to, to raise the pH. Borax is the ONLY chemical you can safely add on top of trichlor. Add it slowly to the skimmer.

[mreesept]

I have used stabilized 3" pucks before along with shock from SAMs club but I did not measure and put stabilizer in before.

I will put the bleach in tomorrow as I am not home tonight. I will measure Chlorine before and after adding the bleach.

==============================

OOPS!! sorry


I must have done something wrong when testing for chlorine yesterday, sorry. Re checked my chlorine this morning... FC 2 CC 4, pH 7.2, TA 210
(I did add another .5 gal of acid last night and 3 gal of bleach before checking forurm, thus the lower pH this morning)
Pool still slightly cloudy with greenish tint and silt on the bottom but looking better. I may be on the right track!!!

Thanks!!

[chem geek]

You can read about my personal experience with this effect in this thread including a summary of readings and amount of chlorine in this post. Basically, your CC will take a roughly equal amount of chlorine, or perhaps some less, to get rid of it, but you may also still have ammonia in your pool from the bacterial conversion of CYA so adding chlorine in that case might increase CC even further in the short-run. There's not much you can do except oxidize it all away and chlorine is the least expensive and effective oxidizer for that purpose.

[PoolDoc]

If you can, pick up a few boxes of 20 Mule Team borax, to go along with the bleach and tabs. You're still showing high CC's even after the correction, and they clean up more nicely at a higher pH level. (Plus the CCs that form at high pH are better at killing algae!)

[mreesept]

My FC is 2, what should CC be???

I thought I was on the right track with FC 2 CC 4 and the pH and TA coming down.
I guess I am confused. Is it because my cya is 0? Is it possible that I just didn't stabilize enough in the past?
I know that I screwed up the pH and TA last year by adding too much baking soda and ph up.

[PoolDoc]

Normally, you want your CC level to at or below the lowest reading on your chlorine test. So, if you are using the FAS-DPD at the 1 drop = 0.5 ppm dilution, than you want a CC of 0.5 or less. If you are doing the 0.2 ppm dilution, than you want 0.2 ppm or less.

CC is chlorine that attached goo -- usually people goo -- but didn't finish the job. On an outdoor pool exposed to sunlight, you'll rarely have significant CC levels if
1. you chlorinate CONSISTENTLY;
2. you don't add pool store goo;
3. you haven't just had a ginormous pool party, with all sorts of people getting lotion or pee in the pool.

But, during start up, things are different. I could explain more, but it would probably just be confusing. Just add the borax and bleach and keep using the tabs, and let us know what's going on, every couple of days -- unless something goes wrong. You *should* see a clearing pool, rising FC levels, and dropping CC levels.

[mreesept]

Please Help....

Am I doing something wrong???
I have continued to have 3" pucks in the skimmer and have gone through a 50# bucket, I buy at least 3 gal of bleach and add every night and I still have FC from 1-4 but CC is still 1.5 to 2.0 but what is real concerning to me is that I am doing something wrong is the pH.... I add box after box of Borax and still my pH is going down to 6.8.

Is there any advantage to "washing soda" over borax?
The only reason is that the Washing soda is cheaper where I live. I have only added Borax but I have added probably added at least 12-15 boxes since this started. (I just don't want to screw it up by adding too much, or maybe that is not possible)

Also I add the Borax through the skimmer, is there a better way???

(I don't know if this is an issue but I have a Poplar and Oak tree overhanging the pool as well as arborvitae shrubs about 10' from the pool. The Poplar trees have been releasing a long skinny "thing" when their leaves come out and collect in my skimmer, I dont know if that will effect the pH.)

My water is now clear without any real odor.

Thanks for your help

InGround Vinyl pool, 18x36, 22,000 gal, sand filter, heat pump, Live in PA, overhanging trees over the pool