I'm moving your post into the SWCG section, but after a little checking, I don't have any definite recommendations.
I'm moving your post into the SWCG section, but after a little checking, I don't have any definite recommendations.
PoolDoc / Ben
I'm not sure on your particular brand, but I've picked up some cells and other components for my Jandy Aquapure on E-bay for very good prices over the years. You take your chances with private sellers, but I've not been burned yet on parts for my system on Ebay. Though I only buy from those with good feedback as sellers.
Jandy Aqua-Pure SWCG on 1.5" bypass to a venturi skimmer; in-floor cleaning system presently disengaged. pebble coat surface, spill over spa
15x30' kidney 22.9K gal IG pool; swg; Jandy Cl 340 cartridge filter; Pentair Intelliflo VS pump; 18hrs; K2006 Taylor; shallow well + utility; summer: ; winter: ; none; PF:5.2
Thanks for the idea. I had never thought of doing that. I think will at least see if its out there on ebay.
I was an inch away from buying a 'generic' cell replacement for my Aquarite from poolsupplyworld.com when I saw they had the Hayward replacement (they bought Aquarite?) for not much more. I think I paid about $430 for the Hayward. The unit shipped quickly and arrived quickly. I think they used FedEx. I installed it and am now generating chlorine.
For what it's worth, I've heard some of the generics are just as good, if not even better in some way, to the factory originals. I stayed with the named brand in case I need service, I don't want them pointing the clear blue salt cell and claiming that's the problem even if it isn't.
Just my paranoia.
- Mike
13,500 gal, gunite, white plaster, Aquarite SWG, 2 ft Waterfall and Ledge Bubbler
I'm in the exact same boat as you turk2012. My Polaris Autoclear was installed 4 seasons ago. At the end of last season, it would not produce chlorine. Since they don't make this model anymore, I'm stuck with all local service companies wanting to install a whole new system for $1800 or taking the chance of trying to replace the cell myself, and hoping it works. I've already spent $300 on chemicals during opening, which here in Arkansas was about 4 weeks ago. Since I put in the SWG when I installed the pool, I'm now starting all over, learning from scratch, which is costly and frustrating. I was considering just doing chemicals moving forward, but what a pain in the rear! My SWG was very low maintenance, and water always clear. Now I'm dealing with balancing chemicals, a lot of time and money!
Cuuhl, once you get the hang of it, doing chemicals by hand is pretty fast and easy. It does take awhile to get the routine down, though.
That's the thing about the B-B-B system: Once you get the hang of it, you find the idea of an SWCG attractive and intriguing, but hard to justify as B-B-B done right is easy and simple, so you don't really gain that much of a work reduction. Of course, if you travel a lot and don't have someone to take care of your pool, that's a different story. I've toyed with getting one over the years, but it's just too easy for me to add LC instead.
Carl
Retired pool store and commercial pool maintenance guy.
I was at my local Metal Supermarket a couple of weeks ago were I met a man who's salt cell was shot. I believe 3 to 4 hundred dollars for replacement. Bottom line, he disassembled the cell to expose the almost completely gone copper bars. I believe it was around 20 bucks for a foot or so of 1/2" copper bar stock and he has enought for many replacements. Yes he had to carefully cut the unit apart, yes he will have to drill and tap the new copper bars and cut them to length, yes he will have to glue everything back together......20 bucks versus 400....I know what I would be doing (or asking a talented neighbor to help).
Bob E.
Intex 10' x 30" metal frame pool, Intex 2500 gph filter/pump, Intex Saltwater generator, SwimMax 11KW heater, 2 x Small Game Solar Domes.
Sounds like your neighbor had a copper ionizer, not an SWCG. Unfortunately, the repair you describe would not work at all on an SWCG cell, which uses titanium or other exotically coated base plates -- to avoid loss of plate metal into the water.