First Post/Info

[tracylou]

ok I think I am having a complete blonde moment......I am very computer savy so I'm not sure what the heck I'm doing wrong but I can't seem to figure out how the 2 links above work.

I entered some info yesterday into the pool chart entry form and figured I would just go back and add what I didn't have available at that time but when I clicked on it again it was all blank. I think I'm missing something here. Also, when will I be granted additional access so I may edit my profile etc? Thanks!!

[PoolDoc]

Hi Tracy;

1. Your membership is upgraded, and your thread moved.

2. You have read-only access to the chart. Currently, I'm the ONLY one with read-write access. Eventually, I'm planning to have a separate chart with both pool info AND test result history, for each PF member, or at least each PF subscriber . . . but that's still at least a month away. So, just re-enter your data from scratch, and I'm merge it.

Ben / PoolDoc

[tracylou]

Ok, thanks for clearing that up for me I was finally able to remove the lid from the in line chlorinator so I currently have the trichlor pucks in there. All of this is so very new to me not to mention what seems like a lot of complicating factors. For example, the pressure guage on the sand filter does not work so knowing when to backwash is best guess. The pump is brand new as is the liner but the sand filter hasn't been cleaned, changed or anything in at least 20 yrs so who knows what kind of crap is in there from prior used chemicals and prior "lack of care" for everything related to this pool. Which leaves me with a "where do I even start" confusion!!! Any tips and/or advice is greatly appreciated and needed! Not having the right test kit is pretty frustrating too but I am determined to overcome everything somehow and get it under control.

[tracylou]

Quick add on to prev reply. Is one able to look inside of the sand filter? What would this involve? And how easy/hard would it be? Also, as long as I get the recommended media cld the sand be changed out? And what allwld that involve? We are just working on a pretty much non existent budget unfortunately.

[aylad]

Go to the pool store (or Home Depot, Lowe's, etc if they sell them) and get a new pressure gauge for the filter, and a roll of Teflon tape. The gauge is only $10 or so, and it only takes a few seconds to replace. Unscrew the old one, wrap the tape around the threads for the new one, and screw it back in....that's it! Backwash the filter, rinse it, then turn it back on, and note your "clean" pressure reading. Then when that pressure increases by 6-8 psi over the "clean" pressure, you know it's time to backwash again.

You can open the sand filter up (if you want to post pics via photobucket, flickr, etc, one of the equipment guys on the forum can help you identify the equipment and tell you where to open it) and look at the sand--if it's not gummy, then there's really no reason to change it. Sand almost never has to be changed, unless it's gummed up from a Baq conversion or other chemical. My other 3 co-mods are each over 10 years on the sand in their filters, with no problems. I would be, too, if I hadn't had a filter problem a few years ago and switched to zeo sand when I filled it back up, just to see if it was any better than sand (it's not, it's just more expensive ). You might, however, need to top it off--most of them should be 2/3 full with sand, I think--does the owner still have the manual? If you DO decide to change it, you can get filter sand at the pool store. Sandblasting sand, sandbox sand, etc. is not the same stuff--it's a different coarseness. It's not a hard job, it's just boring and labor-intensive....it requires scooping all the old sand out and disposing of it, and then scooping the new sand back in, being careful not to damage the laterals inside the filter. Personally, I would just replace the gauge , if everything appears to be working okay, and then deal with the filter later if you need to. I'm a fan of "if it ain't broke, don't fix it!".

How does your water look?

[tracylou]

Thank you SSOOOO much for the informative reply.

Hopefully I can get the gauge replacement soon. I can still post pics if needed but here is the info for the pump, filter and valve. I've included everything that I saw on each piece as I didn't want to omit something so I apologize if it's more info than is really needed. [PoolDoc - info below ]

I'm pretty sure that the 2 screw like things on the valve under the part that you turn for backwash and rinse etc just need to be unscrewed and then the valve would prob twist off giving me access to actually see inside the filter. Is there a seal or gasket at this point?

I'm pretty sure after 20 yrs the sand more than likely needs to at least be topped off, but then again I have no prior chemical history info, but if I need to change it out the sticker with the media info and how much is still intact so as long as I go by that I should be ok, right?

No, the owner does not have the manual anymore. How hard is it to get everything back together and flowing correctly after opening up a filter? I feel that the filter is not getting enough small particles out of the water and not sure if its putting sand into the pool and

here's why........there has been sand in the bottom of the pool since day one for me which I was unable to vacuum up due to low suction, but thankfully yesterday I was given a tip to shut off the bottom drain when vacuuming so all the suction power was in the skimmer and I was FINALLY able to get every piece of grit and pebbles and dirt out, then i backwashed very well, rinsed, and feel as if I can now accurately determine what is going back into the pool from the filter or via plumbing. I'm pretty sure that the sand that was in it was left from a "wonderful neighbor's grandson" who threw rocks and everything else he could find into the bottom before the bottom was even visible and I've never had any success getting it out until yesterday.

Now when I took this pool over there had been no cover on it since the new liner went in and barely any chemicals added and there was about 5 inches of leaves and sludge on the bottom with no visibility past 2" below surface. After "rigging" the leaf catcher contraption thru the water hose and many man hours I got most of the big stuff out. Then using the manual vacuum with crappy suction (didn't know above mentioned trick yet) and 100's more hours of diligent back breaking work was able to get the majority of the rest.

Somehow after that (and prob a small miracle) over the weeks and the good thorough vacuum job yesterday I am THRILLED to say that the pool and water look what I consider diamond sparkling clean!!!! I am very proud of where I have brought the pool and don't want my hard work to be in vain so I want to do everything right from here on. The only thing I did notice floating in the water in front of the light last night were small particles which is why I say the filter is not doing as good a job as it could and I want to check everything first before possibly exploring the "adding DE method" as it may not be necessary once filter is back to correct working order. Today is my birthday so me and my son are prob just gonna enjoy swimming in the clean pool and I might do a little "magic erasing" work on the grungy steps and white (gray right now) trim that's between the liner and the concrete surround of the pool and I think once I get those 2 things polished back to original color the pool and everything will truly look "brand spanking new".

Altho I am a female, I grew up watching my dad fix/work on anything and everything, who is an aircraft mechanic, and learning all kinds of stuff, not to mention I was fortunate enough to be born with his technical brain so there really isn't much I can't do or at least figure out mechanical wise, and if I can't do it, I have a WONDERFUL husband that is always more than willing to help me out or teach me so that going forward I can handle it. If it wasn't for him and some team work we would have never been able to get the cross threaded lid off the in line chlorinator successfully and without damaging attached plumbing in the process.

As far as chemicals and levels, I added approx 5lbs of CYA over a week ago and of course followed all tips pertaining to that contained on the PF but I don't have a way to check where it's at right now and no reliable "non strip using pool store" either but I believe the level by best guess is "ok". 3 days ago I added 1.42 gallons of 6% bleach (pool is 21,000 gal) to the water that had a chlorine reading of .5 prior and pH of 7.2 and at that time the trichlor pucks were in the skimmer.

After testing the water each day the chlorine has seemed to stay around 6 (I say around because my test kit only goes up to 5) and pH holding very close to 7.6 and without knowing any other levels and no visible water "issues" I'm reluctant to try to "mess" with anything until I have a way to determine what needs messing with.

Is this a wise decision, or are there any recommendations that you can give me as I need and always appreciate anything that is offered? Also, I now have two 3" trichlor pucks in the auto chlorinator and I set it on .5 as a starting point as I don't want too much chlorine or CYA added additionally because I know it's a lot easier to add than take out.

Levels tested last night were still holding at chlorine 6 and pH almost 7.6, which is also why I'm guessing the CYA level is in the more than 0 to "ok" point. Of course I know all this assuming and guessing could possibly get me into BIG trouble but it's all I'm capable of doing with a limited test kit and resources. Is there any advice you can offer, should I turn the auto chlorinator up/down, or just try to ride the "if it ain't broke don't fix it" wave for the time being?

One more thing and I will stop rambling, is there a website I can go to or can a tech person possibly send me a step by step instruction layout that includes everything that I would need to do to open up the filter starting with the turning off the pump step and include what, if any, valves and stuff would need to be shut off, all the way to how to get filter/pump primed and back up and running once finished? I am just so unfamiliar with everything that the last thing I want to do is while attempting to make it better, end up costing the owner a lot of $ or a bigger headache. I know she appreciates everything I have done and will do but I would be heartbroken if I screwed anything up, plus we really like having a "big" pool to swim in whenever we want, not to mention I am finally able to start teaching my son how to swim which I see as a must for life!! (I was a competitive swimmer for years so it's kinda in our blood ;-)

Thank you in advance for taking the time to share the knowledge and experience that each one of you has!! It means the world to me and I don't know what I would have done had I not found this incredible forum!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


Pool/Equip Specs:
16' x 32' rectangular IG vinyl
approx21,000 gallons
Shallow 3' sloping to Deep 6'
New vinyl liner but pool was built approx 20 yrs ago
Valve and Filter (including sand) are original (20 yrs), Pump new this year
Hayward Vari-Flo Valve, Model # SP711, Serial # 120EZ4
Hayward Pro Series, High Rate Sand Filter, Model # S210T
Hayward (A.O. Smith) Super Pump, Self Priming, Model # C48K2N143B1, Serial # 19311CH
Rainbow Lifegard, In Line Automatic Chlorine/Bromine Feeder, Model # 320, Serial # S198382

[Watermom]

Tracylou,
Please don't be offended but, can you please make a post with only the basic necessary info we need. We answer SO many posts each day and it is necessary for us to be able to read a post quickly, offer advice, and move on to the next one. On a forum such as this, lengthy posts with long paragraphs are really difficult for us to get through. Also, just to give you a heads up ------- sometimes when people see a really long post or thread, they just move on to the next one and don't even read it.

I hope I haven't offended you. Just trying to help! Thanks.

[BigDave]

tracylou,
Here is a link to the Manual for the S210T. The plumbing to and from the filter will determine how hard it will be to remove the multiport valve. Once the plumbing is disconnected, remove the two screws on the flange clamp (loosen each one a little at a time) and remove the flange clamp. Gently turn the multiport to break it free from the filter body and the internal pipe then lift it off. When reassembling, carefully clean the O-ring and the seating surfaces on the filter body and the valve body. Some people (me included) use siliconed O-ring lube to help seal the flange and make it eaiser to open the next time.