Pool Pilot low chlorine

[Oviedo]

8/26 update:
Had pool water tested today:
Total Chlorine: 2.0 ppm
Free Chlorine: 2.0 ppm
pH: 7.8
Total Alkalinity 105 ppm
Calcium Hardness: 360 ppm
Stabilizer: 50 ppm
Total dissolved solids: 4200 ppm
salt: 2800 ppm
Water temp: 83 degrees

I'm actually encouraged that the chlorine was not 0 as it had been the last couple weekends when I brought samples in. I ran the pool pilot test a few times, now getting a reading of ~14-16 volts and 3.4-4.0 amps while the "check/clean cell" light was on. Ran test after "check/clean cell" light went off and got 18 volts with 6.5 amps.

Based on the water test results I added ~1/4 gallon acid, this is typical I add this weekly, and I added 2 lbs of stabilizer and a 40 lb bag of salt. Then I brushed all of the pool surfaces and added 2 gallons of liquid cholorine because I had a light shadow of algae on some of the pool walls, this brought the free chlorine up to 5ppm+ (above scale on my home test kit).

[PoolDoc]

Most home SWCG units will NOT keep up with chlorine demand, while you have active algae growing. With a CYA=50 ppm, you DEFINITELY need to read the Best Guess page, linked in my blue signature bar.

Use bleach to raise the pH -- to the DARK yellow - orangish-yellow OTO range. If you want help with doses, please complete the pool chart:

Pool Chart Entry Form

[Poolsean]

I agree with Ben. Let's treat the algae first, then we can deal with the FC levels.
The amps and volts are in the proper range, other than when the Check System light comes on and the voltage and amperage drops.

My best guest is that the cell is worn out on one side, moreso than the other side.

To confirm, when you get the Check System light, lift the cell cord off and move it over to the other holes in the cell cord.
The cell cord has three holes, two of which are used with the SC-36 cell.
(That is, if I number the holes on the cell cord as 1, 2, 3 and the prongs on the cell A, B. Assume 1 is on A and 2 is on B, lift it off and place 2 on A and 3 on B.)
Make sure when you do this, there is nothing in the third hole (there should be a red plastic insert cap). By doing this, you've reversed polarity on the cell.
IF the message goes away, then the cell is worn out on one side and not the other.
IF the message stays, then it's possible that the Power Module is damaged and not reversing properly.