I think that may be why the pool store told me to use "Stain Ban" first thing in the spring. I do have some of that on hand, if needed. I will try to find mbar - Thank you!
I think that may be why the pool store told me to use "Stain Ban" first thing in the spring. I do have some of that on hand, if needed. I will try to find mbar - Thank you!
I sent her a pm asking her to take a look at your post....
In the meantime, work on your alk problem, and I'd keep my Cl level at least 3-5 until marie tells you what to do from there.
Janet
Thank you so much Janet. I'm off to Wal-Mart, or wherever needed, to get a test kit, chlorox and muriatic acid. Will check back as soon as I get home. The help is very much appreciated!
Hi Pamsel, don't worry, we will get your pool ready to swim in, and not have you go broke in the meantime. Welcome to the forum. First, do you have a well, or a way to add water without it costing too much? If so, I would try draining part of the water down 1/3, fill it back up, drain it down 1/3, and continue again. This way it shoud get some of the stuff you have been putting in it out. Your ph and alkalinity are very high, and high ph with high chlorine will percipitate metal right out of the water onto the pool surface. What kind of pool do you have, vinyl, concrete or fiberglass? Once you drain and refill, you should get a complete set of your chemical numbers like they have mentioned before. If you can't get a test that tests for all (cl, cc, ph, alk, cal, cya) then maybe you can find another pool store that tests for all this without test strips! Don't buy anything they are trying to sell you, just get some sequestering agent - like sequasol, metal free, jack's magic, or something that will bind with the metal to keep it in suspension. Put this in first - put at least as much as the bottle says for your size pool, and a little extra too. Check your ph and make sure it is between 7 & 7.2. If your alk is high, turn up the return jets till they bubble on the water. Add enough chlorine to shock the pool - it depends on how much cya (stablilizer) you have in your pool - here is a chart:
Stabilizer . . . . . . Min. FC . . . . Max FC . . . 'Shock' FC
=> 0 ppm . . . . . . . 1 ppm . . . . . 3 ppm . . . . 10 ppm
=> 10 - 20 ppm . . . . 2 ppm . . . . . 5 ppm . . . . 12 ppm
=> 30 - 50 ppm . . . . 3 ppm . . . . . 6 ppm . . . . 15 ppm
=> 60 - 90 ppm . . . . 5 ppm . . . . . 10 ppm . . .. 20 ppm
=> 100 - 200 ppm . . . 8 ppm . . . . . 15 ppm . . .. 25 ppm
as you can see it is important to know this cya number, as you may think you are shocking your pool, when in reality you need a lot more chlorine to kill the algae. You must keep the shock level constant, letting the chlorine go up and down will only extend the amount of time you are dealing with the algae. If you don't get a test kit that goes above 5 you can do a search here on the forum for the "shot glass method" that along with distilled water the kit will allow you to test higher.
Don't worry if you get any staining while you are clearing the pool of algae. It is much more important to get rid of the algae, and then if you have stains, we can deal with them.
Just remember the less stuff you put in your pool, the more money in your pocket, and the easier it is to balance the water. All you really need to keep on hand is baking soda, borax, bleach and muriatic acid. And of course a good test kit. The one that is sold on the "Pool Solutions" site is the best in my opinion - the investment will save you much money in the future.
Please feel free to ask any questions you have - remember there are no stupid questions!
Northeast PA
16'x32' kidney 16K gal IG fiberglass pool; Bleach; Hayward 200lb sand filter; Hayward pump; 24hrs; Pf200; well; summer: none; winter: mesh; ; PF:7.5
Hello Marie,
Thank you for your reply. I just returned home from my second trip to find a decent test kit - 3 towns and 7 stores later, I think I have one that will do. It does test CYA, Total Chlorine, Alk, PH, Hardness. I am going to go to work on the pool now that I have the test kit. I guess I will first drain it down and refill before I start using the muriatic acid and chlorine. Is that correct? I understand that I should work on the PH level first, with muriatic acid. When that gets into proper range, then the chlorine and the sequestering agent. Do I have this straight? BTW, it is a vinyl lined pool.
Thanks again, for your help!
Yes, I would drain and refill first - try to get your cya down to 50 if you can, but 60 to 90 is ok if you want to run high chlorine. We usually recommend 35 - 50 on this board. Next add the muriatic acid there is the bleach calc on this forum, Here is the link:
http://www.hal-pc.org/~mwsmith2/BleachCalc262.exe
You can use this to figure out how much bleach you need, how much acid for ph, or borax and others - in the upper left corner it says more calcs, click on that and you will see the different calculations you can use. If you go to settings make sure it is on the imperial so you get the calcs in gallons. Bring your ph down to 7.2. The ph will not register lower right away, so don't add any more than the calc tells you, it will show up later.Five minutes after adding the muriatic acid you can add the sequestering agent - like I said, add a little more than the bottle says. You can add the bleach right after - enough to bring the chlorine up to shock level. Brush the pool and Keep the filter running 24/7. Keep checking the chlorine and bring it back to shock level until you hold the chlorine overnight, then add 2 days just to be sure. You want to make sure all the algae is dead. You should see a noticable improvement in the water color after you hit it with the bleach in a couple of hours. Your water may get cloudy from the sequestering agent and the dead algae. Just keep the chlorine up, and the filter running and your water will clear up. Keep me posted on your progress. Once you take control of your own pool, you will find it much more enjoyable, and you will get to know how your own water is - everyone's is a little different! You will get used to how much chlorine your pool uses, and you will spend hardly anytime on pool care.
Northeast PA
16'x32' kidney 16K gal IG fiberglass pool; Bleach; Hayward 200lb sand filter; Hayward pump; 24hrs; Pf200; well; summer: none; winter: mesh; ; PF:7.5
Hi, Marie. Here is what is probably a very dumb question, but here goes: We pay for "clean" water from a community well. But we also have a pond in our backyard in which we have installed a "wet well" which allows us to water the garden and to irrigate with water from the pond. Would it be a terrible idea to use water from the pond to put into the swimming pool? It certainly would save money, but I am thinking it would be a bad idea to use pond water because of the algae, microorganisms, etc that would come with the pond water. I just thought that perhaps the filter and the chlorine could possibly take care of whatever comes with the pond water... Wishful thinking or not? Thanks!
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