Switching from SWCG to liquid Chlorine.

[poolaris]

As an update to my earlier posts. I have been testing water twice per day, and have found that adding 16oz liquid chlorine at 10% restores my cl level to 3.0 by the following early morning. Evening time it will have dropped to 2.0 and that is when I add the chlorine. Acid use has been reduced although not by huge amounts. I need to add about 1/3rd gall every 3 days to keep it below 8. Now I have a regular pattern going I can probably get away with testing every other day. The whole procedure is vastly quicker than cleaning out that salt cell and bleeding the system every morning and when the cost of replacement cells is taken into consideration the liquid chlorine method is also way cheaper. My phosphate
level is high but there are no signs of algae and the water is still sparkling clear. I do however have really bad scaling on the tile and rubbing with pumice is totally useless, It will need sand blasting next time I drain it. Would there be any point in putting in Phosfree at this stage?

[Spensar]

Phosphates are algae food, but because of the chlorine there is not algae, so the phosphates are not relevant. Phosfree at this point would be moot, unless there is some other reason than algae control.

[chem geek]

I'd lower your TA level as that should reduce calcium carbonate scaling on the tile. See the How To Guide to Lowering Swimming Pool Alkalinity.