Hayward pump cutting out several times a day - is this normal?

[CarlD]

It could be the bearings are shot and need to be replaced. It's not an impossible job but inevitably, other things will break, probably the long screws that pass through the motor and are 6-10" long, and very thin.
A new motor will run you $200 to $300, but a new pump could be had for $400 to $550. I replaced my pump this year.

[Tommy]

Aaaahhh the good news keeps coming ...

[Tommy]

Just one more thought in my own defense:

When I removed the pump motor and got the impeller to turn freely, I energized it on a cinder block while it was still isolated. My ears did not hear bad bearings! And I know what bad bearings sound like.

Just sayin' ...

Meanwhile, I have since learned (thanks to wonderful YouTube) that the front & rear bearings are '6203', available via Amazon, etc. for a fraction of the cost of a new motor. All you need is a 3-arm bearing puller, a strap wrench (to grip the impeller), and some patience.

[Tommy]

I'm baaaaaaaaaaack!

I started this thread last year and described several symptoms. I can now say this: if in doubt as to whether you have bad motor bearings on a Hayward pump, wait a year. It's now quite obvious: my bearings are toast. I had to really work to (manually) get the impeller to rotate and the bearings sound awful! And the motor is running hot and all the rest.

So, given my motor: A.O. Smith UST1102 (Model No. C48K2N117A9; 1hp; 3450rpm), can anyone say FOR SURE what bearings to order?

I have heard "6203" (both ends), but when I went up on Amazon (for example), I see various 6203 flavors:

6203ZZ, 6203-2RS, 6203-2NSE, 6203RS, 62032NSENR, S6203-2RS, 6203, etc.

I suspect these may all be the same thing (size). Is the main thing the dimension spec: I.D. x O.D. x W (17mm X 40mm X 12mm) ??