What JohnT said...

Quote Originally Posted by famdog
Hello all.
I have a 24' AG (13,500 gal) with a sand filter and chlorine feeder inline filled with dichlor tabs set at max. I opened the pool last weekend, and spent 2 days fixing a cracked skimmer and superchlorinating to remove an algae bloom from the winter. The water is looking much better and I vacuumed this AM for the first time. I'm colorblind, so the water test kits are VERY hard for me to use, so I brought a sample to Leslie's for a test. Here are the results:

FAC=3
TAC=3
Assuming the numbers are accurate you need a lot more chlorine. I would add a large jug (1gal + 48 oz) of Ultra Bleach (6%) to get your FC up over 8, where it needs to be at a minimum with a CYA of 100+

ph=6.0
Whoa! Dangerously low enough to damage your liner. You need to fix that ASAP, with soda ash or borax.

TA=0
much too low. I, too, question the testing. If it's right, you need to get it to between 80 and 125.

Cal hardness=160
Totally irrelevant in a vinyl pool until it hits 500ppm. Ignore it and do NOT add anything to raise it. Typical poolstore nonsense.

CYA=100
Too high, but the only way to lower it is drain off water and replace it. Or you can keep your chlorine between 8 and 15ppm and shock by bumping it to 25.
TDS=475
phosphates=0
TDS is a fav of pool stores. For 99.99% of us it means nothing and can be ignore completely.
Phosphates and phospate removers are the latest poolstore scare tactic and expensive solution. For most of us it's useless.

I had a pail of soda ash at home, so I put in 3# after the test. Leslie's suggested I add 10.5# in total, in 3 stages, 4 hours apart. They also suggested adding 6# of hardness plus tomorrow.

I bought some Conditioner (CYA) when I was there, I am ready to be converted to a walmart buying bleach head ASAP!

Please show me the path to clear water and cheap chemicals...
Don't add "hardness". About 4-6 hours after adding ph increaser, test pH.