Slime behind Niche Light

[PoolDoc]

I'll post more later . . . but chlorine smells almost always mean you do not have ENOUGH chlorine, so the chlorine can't stay ahead of the dirt.

Do this:

1. Run your filter on high 24/7, if you aren't already doing so.

2. Purchase a local OTO/phenol red drops kit (yellow/red drops). Use it to maintain chlorine levels; you want to reach OTO 'orange' (12 - 20 ppm).

3. Also purchase 6 gallons of plain store brand 8% household bleach . . . for EACH 10,000 gallons in your pool. Begin adding 2 gallons per 10K each evening.

4. Order a K2006 testkit (testkit page with Amazon links from my blue signature block below). Test your pool once you receive it.

5. After you get your OTO kit, tell us what your pH level is.

[selectstar]

Do this:

1. Run your filter on high 24/7, if you aren't already doing so.
Yes. 24/7 for a over a week now.

2. Purchase a local OTO/phenol red drops kit (yellow/red drops). Use it to maintain chlorine levels; you want to reach OTO 'orange' (12 - 20 ppm).
I have what I think is the OTO, when I last tested yesterday it was orangish brown

3. Also purchase 6 gallons of plain store brand 8% household bleach . . . for EACH 10,000 gallons in your pool. Begin adding 2 gallons per 10K each evening.
I was wondering adding more chlor would be necessary. I will try this tonight

4. Order a K2006 testkit (testkit page with Amazon links from my blue signature block below). Test your pool once you receive it.
I have this kit. See image. Before shocking, ph was about 7.1-7.2. Now it is low. Is this due to using the powdered bag shock?





5. After you get your OTO kit, tell us what your pH level is.
Appears to be lower than 7

[PoolDoc]

+ Here's an approximate OTO chart, for off scale results:



It sounds like your chlorine may be in the 30+ range; if so neither your pH nor DPD chlorine test results will be valid.

+ The test block you photographed is from a K2005 kit, not a K2006. You need a K-1515 kit to make up the difference.

+ Please test and report your CYA (stabilizer) level.

[selectstar]

My k2005 says cya approx 100. the test strips say approx 40-50. I've tested each twice with same result. My cya was about 80 last season before close. Upon closing I drained about a 1/3. I cannot see how it could be 100 per the k2005. I have not added any CYA. I did add the bleach as instructed last night. The smell of the water seems to have dissipated, but clarity and overall quality is still suffering. I did do the diluted test via k2005 a couple times before adding bleach.

1st go chlorine off the scale
2nd go with half/half dilution looked to be off scale but close
3rd go with .25 and .75 dilution looked to be about 2ppm

after bleach this morn
1st go chlorine off the scale
2nd go with half/half dilution looked to be off scale but close
3rd go with .25 and .75 dilution looked to be about 4-5ppm

Am ordering the k1515 but this is the best I have for now.
Again thanks.

[PoolDoc]

The smell + the difference between your OTO results (>20 ppm) and your DPD results (~16 ppm) suggest extremely high combined chlorine levels. Do this:

1. Check your pH using the test in the K2005. But, first do a 50:50 dilution with DISTILLED water. The pH result does not have to be adjusted, but read it quickly. The phenol red in the K2005 is compensated to ~10 ppm TC, or 20 with the dilution, but your TC may be higher than that.

2. If your pH is below 7.8, add borax, a box at a time, till you reach ~8.0.

3. Then, begin adding bleach -- but first tell me how many gallons you have OR what your the pool's dimensions are.

[selectstar]

18.5 x 38.5 Grecian 3ft shallow, 8.5ft deep. My assumption has always been 20-22k.
I did manage to get the water tested by a local store. This guy seems to be a straight shooter and I have no reason to distrust him.

After the bleach, I brought a sample to him this morning. The results follow.
CYA = 96 (Close to what I read from K2005)
ph = 8.1 (This blew me away considering it was below 7 before bleach additions)
fc = 10 (Said this is as high as he can test)
tc = 10
ta = 109
adj ta = 80
appearance = mod to severe cloudy (my assessment)
temp = 78
salt = not tested as I have not added any as of yet

Will retest ph this evening and post.
Hope this helps. Thx

[PoolDoc]

Your volume estimate seems reasonable. Your pH and alkalinity levels are fine for now.

So . . . go ahead and add 2 gallons of chlorine each evening. Test using the DPD tabs @ 1:4 dilution (multiply x5) every other day. Skip dosing at 20 ppm FC; resume @ 15 ppm.

Brush the pool completely.

Report FC & CC results once you get the K-1515

[chem geek]

Don't forget that to do the Taylor CYA test you should stand outside with your back to the sun and hold the tube in front of you looking straight down into it. You want strong indirect light for the test -- not direct sunlight and not weak indoor lighting.

[selectstar]

Several days now and the water has seemed to straighten itself out. It actually has a hint of bleach smell which is far removed from where it was and the cloudiness has dissipated.

This morning...
FC=7-8ppm on a half/half diluted test. It appears to be dropping, albeit, slowly. Using the instructions (multiply by 2), I think this puts me at about 14-16ppm
CC=7-8ppm (appears non existent)
PH=7.2, 7.3
TA=100
CYA still about 100. I still don't know how it got this high. My readings must have been incorrect at close last year.
Clarity on a 1(bad) - 10(perfect) is about 7-8

Going forward I plan to give more attention to the niche light and those hard to reach areas that have proven to be problematic.

Thank you for everyone who contributed their knowledge and insight to this problem. IMO, this forum is the single best resource out there.

[PoolDoc]

I'm curious how it's going, now.

Ben