Test Results are in :(((

[Watermom]

If you DON'T have trichlor, instead why don't you use our Super Simple Start-up Recipe:> http://pool9.net/ssr/

By the way, your CC reading is perfect. Ideally, you want it to be 0.

[MattinAZ]

I do have about 15lbs of trichloroethane left, therefore I'll start with trichlor until I reach the required CYA level.

Keeping an eye on ph, fc and the rest. But will test CYA in 3 to 4 weeks

I'm a little confused about the calcium levels though.my Calcium Hardness is 110 and living in Southern AZ I know we have hard water. Do I still need to add calcium, if yes where do I buy calcium chloride ? Will this be in lieu of trichlor tablets or bleach as it looks like calcium chloride has chlorine in it ?

Thanks very much

Matt

[CarlD]

For your pebbletec pool, like all hard-sided pools, the recommended CH level is 200-400ppm. zif you expect to be adding hard water to your pool, you MAY want to rely on that to get you to 200ppm. You can supplement your chlorine with Cal-Hypo, preferably with a content of at least 60%. it will add calcium as well.

Meanwhile, your CYA is low and your pH is on the high side so your tri-chlor tabs are perfect for lowering pH and adding CYA.

Just be sure you don't mix the two. Dangerous. Once dissolved in the water, they are safe.

[BigDave]

You and Carl make a good point - How hard is your makeup water and how much do you have to make up weekly? You do want to get the CH above 200 (preferably closer to 300) pretty soon or the water will take calcium out of the surface.

[MattinAZ]

Thanks for the heads up on required CH levels

Yesterday we had a rain storm (yes it rains in Southern Arizona) and shocked the pool using 1 lb HTH Super I had at home. It is about 56.44 percent Cal Hypo according to the label.

The test results I did this morning, using K2006 are as follows ;

FC 3.8 ppm (up from 1.2 ppm)
CC 0.2 ppm ( more like 0.1 ppm)
pH 7.8 (same as before)
TA 120 ppm (no change)
CH 110 ppm (no change)
CYA not tested as I am using TriChlor tablets (3 at a time in a floater, started 2 days ago) will be tested in a month or so

Theoretically 1.25 lb of this product shoul raise my CH by 0.1 ppm but I have used 1 lb and the strong rain I guess are the reasons CH didn't rise. We'll at least it didn't go down either.

So my plan for today is to go out and buy about 10 lbs of Cal Hypo and use it at the rate of 1 lb a day every night until I reach at least 200 ppm of CA. By this way we can still use the pool if I can keep FC around 3-4 ppm

1) Is this a sound plan or will it be better if I use say about 8 lbs of Cal Hypo at once and restrict pool usage until FC returns to normal. I am guessing this will push the FC levels up, could this be damaging to the pool ?

2) if I can't find 60 percent Cal Hypo is it OK to use 56.44 percent material? Or should I order stronger Cal Hypo online.

Thanks very much

Matt

[MattinAZ]

Regarding hardness of my makeup water

I have checked our water authority's web site it says it is 110 ppm which is consistent with my results. So I definitely need to raise the CH levels

[BigDave]

If you keep the pH on the high end (7.8), you should be able to chlorinate with cal-hypo until you reach your calcium goal. It will take a while. Each pound of 53% cal-hypo should raise your FC by a little less than 6 and raise the CH by 4. Don't dump 8lbs all in at once, use it as your primary source of chlorine until you reach your CH goal. By my figuring, you'll need to use up more like 30lbs of 53% cal-hypo to get above 200ppm.

[MattinAZ]

Thanks for reply

I am using HTH shock for the time being 56% CalHypo but also ordered 24 lbs Doheny's pool shock 66 % CalHypo. Once I receive it I'll use that product and will report the results.

I'm also having bubbles in the return do you know of a good product to reseal the connections without taking them apart? I wrapped shopping bag and it seemed to slow it

I bought Rectorseal's Tplus2 from HD would that work or what product should be used ? Would appreciate suggestions

Thanks
Matt