Need help! Please!!!

[bgray]

Well, the good news is that my wife reported a slight change in color from green to blue-green after this morning's additional Cl.

duraleigh,
Now that I've been given the green light to crank the Cl up to 30+, I am ready and able. The next time my wife will be able to tend to the pool is late this afternoon. Then, after work, I'll make another trip to Sam's (those people think I'm dissolving a body or something with all the bleach I'm buying... ) and mega-shock it after the sun goes down. Thanks for the feedback.

Anyone want to chime in on the Polaris idea?

[bgray]

MORE GOOD NEWS!

My wife now describes the water color as "turquoise."
TC is still 20+, so we're holding our shock levels. HOORAY!
She did say that pH is reading at or slightly below 7.0 -- that is concerning me...
I know I read that pH readings could be wacky at high Cl levels. But, I thought the wackiness came in the form of unusually HIGH pH test results. Mine has dropped from 7.2 (consistently) to this latest result. Should I disregard it as high Cl wackiness? Or, should I add Borax? If add, how much?

She also said that the cloudiness resulting from brushing has moved from green to grayish-green. Sounds like progress to me!!!

I am a believer.

Thanks to all --
bgray

[bgray]

UPDATE:

This morning, the water was definitely MUCH LESS green and MUCH MORE milky. When I cleaned my Pentair/PacFab cartridge filter, it was a LOT easier to clean the pleats with the hose than when there was slimy green algae.

My question now is: At what ppm do I need to keep the Cl levels until the water TOTALLY clears up? 20's per Ben's best guess CYA chart? 30's per advice of Duraleigh? Something else?

[duraleigh]

Ben's chart is (I hope this is right) his approximation based on his experience and education as to when you actually reach breakpoint.

Importantly, it also protects vinyl liners from potential fading at those high levels. You have no vinyl to protect. Raising your Cl to 30 absolutely insures that you reach breakpoint...allowing your Cl to be more effective. It will come down to normal levels as the Sun and new organics continue to consume it.

I see no downside to shock level Cl in the low 30's for a gunite or Fibreglas pool.

DISCLAIMER: This opinion is based entirely on anecdotal evidence and, given the intelligence level of the opinionator, I would take it with a small grain of salt.

[bgray]

duraleigh,

To clarify, I was not questioning your opinion, as I tend to agree with it.
I think my question was worded poorly...
Now that my algae is dead (???), do I need to keep Cl up in the 30s? Or, in the 20s? Or, some other "maintenance" level?

OR

Should I wait until the water is crystal clear before I allow it to come back down?

I want to do what I must to clear up the pool. I'm just thinking about the pain of dilution testing, the cost of the bleach, etc.

Thanks so much for your help through this.
bgray

[duraleigh]

Bgray,

No prob....I heard what you were saying...just didn't clarify my answer.

Short answer - keep it up there 'til your water looks crystal clear.

You wont waste any Cl...that high level will simply kill all the bugs an dthen keep doing it's job keeping your pool sanitized. As it comes down, you would've used just as much at lower concentration.

Now, once your water is crystal (and it will be) let it drift down and then maintain it between 5-10ppm...that's your maintenance level and the level you need to keep your pool sanitized at that CYA level.

Nor will you consume excess bleach at that maintenance level. You will simply be holding higher concentrations than someone with lower CYA.

Order Ben's kit to reduce your testing workload. I think it's mandatory for keeping your pool clear year after year.

[duraleigh]

I have kept my cl at 20+ (up to 30+ per duraleigh) for several days now.
The green is gone, and I continue to have a milky blue pool.
At this rate, it could be October before my li'l cartridge filter knocks out all of the cloudiness.

My pH has consistently tested at 7.0. Should I raise it? I read that pH readings could be off when running super high cl levels.

If I need to raise it, do I use Borax? How much?

Thanks.

Leave the pH alone. Focus on chlorine.

Vacuum to help your pump and filter.

You need something that isn't posted as often as it should be on the forum. you need POP (pool owner patience).

If bring your Cl up to shock level at least twice a day, you will clear your pool. Vacuum, brush the sides to expose the algae to the chlorine, and keep the faith.

Probably 20 - 30 times a day the advice given here on the forum is "Keep your chlorine up". It works if you'll do it.

[bgray]

Sorry about the dual-thread confusion

With my cartridge filter, I cannot vacuum to waste; so if I vacuum, it'll be to filter.

Two schools of thought: (1) Let my Polaris buzz around, stirring up sediment and suspending it in the water for my filter to catch; or, (2) letting it all settle and trying to vacuum the bottom (which I cannot see).

Since I don't have Ben's test kit (sacrilege, I know...), and my hth OTO kit only goes to 5, it is difficult (to say the least) to test for levels of 30+. It takes a 5:1 dilution. But, my tests have ben consistently showing 20+. So, keeping my cl up does not seem to be the issue.

I am considering a partial drain/refill. I am not sure if a partial drain would hurt my plaster?