Donna's Poolboy - I used Leslie's Chlor Brite Sanitizer. Granular shock which I dissolved in a bucket before pouring into the pool.
Picture here: http://www.lesliespool.com/shopping/...rd=chlor+brite
Thanks,
Matz
Donna's Poolboy - I used Leslie's Chlor Brite Sanitizer. Granular shock which I dissolved in a bucket before pouring into the pool.
Picture here: http://www.lesliespool.com/shopping/...rd=chlor+brite
Thanks,
Matz
The Chlor Brite shock you aded to the pool contains CYA adding more to your headache. I think everyone hear would tell you to stick to just bleach.
I'm new her too but last year I had the same problem and emptied pool to no avail. I went to a different pool store and guy said to put in 10 to 15 gals of bleach. I did that and no problems since.
I would still drain again.
Knock that sucker (cya) down further.
140 is too high and your going to need to maintain a FC level that is high.
I have spent a summer swimming in 11+ppm FC as a result of high cya with no negatives effects.
I never really felt comfortable about it, but It was what was necessary.
I'm not the expert on this forum, but on the Chlor Brite website, it says: "Has a built-in stabilizer (conditioner or cyanuric acid)." As you probably know, cyanuric acid is CYA. Depending on how much you used when you shocked the pool, you may had added the CYA right back in.
I have a high CYA level right now (it's a little over 100). Using only bleach, I've been keeping the free chrloine level at 10 ppm and the water has stayed clear.
You say your chlorine level is 10 ppm. Is that total chlorine or free chlorine?
two observations.
Pool stores will tell you that high cya levels are not a problem so they can sell you all sorts of copper algecies and clarifeirs when your pool turns green and they don't want to lose the very lucarive profits they make on trichlor and dichlor!
Testing for CYA is not accurate at levels much over 80 ppm and the sample needs to be diluted and tested to get an accurate result. If you dilute a sample of your pool water with 3 parts distilled water and multiply the test results by 4 you will get a more accurate reading on your CYA level. (assuming your cya is above 200 ppm). Also, from what I have heard, cya CAN deposit on the pipes and in the filter when the levels are very high and it is possible that as the levels drop more is redissolving into your water!
Last edited by waterbear; 06-20-2006 at 10:56 PM.
Retired pool store and commercial pool maintenance guy.
waterbear, are you saying that the pool store guy that I called a knucklehead might actually have a pointOriginally Posted by waterbear
? Maybe changing his sand would help reduce CYA? Please say it ain't so
.
~Rick~
18,000G freeform gunite; PebbleSheen; Sta-Rite System 3 Cartridge; Sta-Rite heater; Polaris AutoClear Cl Generator; Polaris 380 cleaner
Like I said I have heard it from a few different sources. Don't know if it's true but it certainly might be. This case here is either proof or is just inaccurate testing because the sample wasn't diluted and the concentration was so high.Originally Posted by rbonin
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Retired pool store and commercial pool maintenance guy.
Donnas Poolboy: OH NO! So much for trusting the pool store and not reading the labels. Why would the pool store reccommend this knowing that my CYA is high??? Oh yeah...to make a buck...they're gonna make more than that when I visit them tomorrowAs for the 10ppm level - it's Free Chlorine.
waterbear - thanks for the dilution suggestion - I'll try that and see where it ends up. Either way - it looks like I just spent a bunch of cash on water and accomplishing nothing.
What still puzzles me is that my water is crystal clear.
Last edited by CandyMoss; 06-21-2006 at 01:13 AM.
As far as chlorine levels go I can tell you that in the State of Florida is is permissable to keep a public pool open with FC levels up to 10 ppm!
Retired pool store and commercial pool maintenance guy.