first PS234 test

[duraleigh]

Hi, Sharon,

The Cal-Hypo will not add stabilizer...it does add a little calcium which is fine for your pool.

I put mine directly into the skimmer....pump running. Very dissolvable.

If you put it in in the daytime, it will be quickly consumed by the Sun....very ineffective.

Put it in the skimmer at dusk. Do not be surprised if it is completely gone next AM. In fact, you should test for FC tomorrow AM and be prepared to repeat the Cal Hypo next evening.

5-10ppm is too innaccurate for your dosage. You must get to 10ppm to reach breakpoint (shock) level. My chart say 3.25 lbs of Cal Hypo will get your 25k pool to 10ppm.

[newtopools]

Ok. I believe I should shock tonight. test tomorrow. Add baking soda tomorrow to increase my alk. and Add stabalizer tomorrow. I'm a little confused because my pool looks good. I thought you only shocked if the pool was cloudy and didn't look good! Thanks again, Sharon

[duraleigh]

Sharon,

Peter suggested shocking (and I concur) because of your test results. The CC=1 is a good indicator you've got organics in the pool....even tho you can't see them.

Shocking now will burn out the CC's (which you don't want) and help you ward off any developing problems.

[newtopools]

I shocked the pool and the next morning I had a
10-fc and by today I have
1/2 fc and 0-cc.
ph-7.3
alk-60

I did get some cya today but now my ? is how much do I put in a sock in the skimmer? I assume the cya is not stronge like the trichlor pucks that I had confused with cya. My pool holds 25,700 gal. I have 0 cya. I do have 2 trichlor taps in tha automatic dispenser on the pump. I have waited till tonight to add my bleach to bring up the FC. Also I am slowly adding baking sond to bring up the alkalinity. Thanks for any help. Sharon

[duraleigh]

HI,Sharon,

Sounds like you're on the right track. How does your water look?

I would put the stabilizer directly into the skimmer....pump running. You'll need about 7 lbs to get into the 30-40 range. Takes a few days to dissolve while it's in your filter....don't backwash it out.

Download "bleachcalc" from any post by mwsmith2. It'll help you all Summer for all your calculations.

[CarlD]

OK, NTP, I'm going to take a different approach:

If you haven't put the CYA in your pool yet, don't. I would, instead, add more pucks to your automatic chlorinator and adjust the flow so your FC is where you want it.

CYA prevents chlorine breakdown, but if you have a constant flow of chlorine (and the auto-chlorinator give you that) it will constantly replenish what has broken down, and your CYA will slowly rise over time.

You see, if you don't have CYA, your chlorine can break down in as little as 15 minutes in direct sun--so you need more chlorine. But your auto-chlorinator is GIVING you that by constantly adding chlorine.

So if you use the pucks and keep the FC level fairly high, you'll eventually get your CYA where you need it, but you won't need to add CYA separately and your water will stay clean. Plus you'll actually get to USE your automatic chlorinator longer and justify the extra cost.

But pucks tend to push pH down so you need to watch THAT and be ready with Borax or Washing Soda.

Actually, Arm&Hammer Washing Soda is PERFECT for you right now since it increases both pH and Alk. It's Sodium Carbonate--same as pH Up and other expensive pool products, but is dirt cheap at the grocery store--usually right next to 20 Mule Team Borax. It's not Baking Soda--that's Sodium BI-Carbonate--very different stuff.

Or you can use both Borax and Baking soda. Your choice.