Copper Piping Failure

[SherrySt]

Dave - I have been thinking the same thing. With the expense of fixing the heater (it was hard piped for the water to go thru the filter/pump then into the heater) and the cost of the chemicals, it may be worth a drain/refill. If I would go that route, would you recommend a complete drain or only partial? We are in Western PA and I don't want the liner to "float" if we do a complete refill and cause more problems. Is there a magic number that is safe to drain to before you destroy your liner?

[duraleigh]

Sherry,

You might be a candidate for the "plastic sheet method" that's been mentioned on this forum several times but I'm not sure anyone has actually tried it.

Basically, buy enough 4 mil poly sheeting to make a 36' dia circle. (width of your pool plus 4' on each side for the depth. You'll have to tape smaller pieces together (duct tape) to form this piece.

Lay the piece on top of your pool and begin draining. As the water goes down, add the new fill water on top of the plastic at the same rate you are draining the old water from underneath.

The plastic separates the two bodies of water (perhaps not perfectly, but close enough) and, when it reaches the bottom, you have done a complete refil without reducing the total volume in your pool at any time.

Again, it's a great idea and I see no reason why it wouldn't work.....just don't think anyone on the forum has actually done it. If they have, maybe they'll chime in and report results.

[JohnT]

You'll have to tape smaller pieces together (duct tape) to form this piece.

You can buy large pieces of plastic from greenhouse supply places that will be big enough with no patching. We used to have above ground tanks at work that were drained and refilled this way, and it does work. Ladders etc. might have to come out.