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Re: closing questions?
You're probably right about the frost line not being an issue down there in Alabama. Because of its small size and low mass the pressure gauge is vulnerable to freezing and that's why it is removed. Same with the chlorinator and any above ground pipes.
Al
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Re: closing questions?
I wasn't as clear as I should have been...You shock the first time JUST to make sure everything is metabolized in your pool...if it's clean and you've been consistent about maintaining it by BBB, then it's not necessary.
The Polyquat will make your FC plummet. But that's OK as long as you expect it and don't let it lag.
The second shock prior to closing is to make sure it's squeaky clean--you don't have to close immediately (I am waiting for my water to reach 60 degrees) but you'll want to keep the FC up there so it's at that 12-15 range when you do actually close.
That's how I do it and it works for me.
All that crud Biogard sells is for the express purpose of moving your money to them--and setting you up so you'll need to spend even MORE money. My only closing chemicals are PolyQuat and chlorine.
Carl
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Re: closing questions?
My water temp is just about 60 degrees. My chlorine is hardly is being used up so after I shock im sure it will only drop slightly. Do I need to bring it up still. Should I add the polyquat after I lower the water level. My concern with the high chlorine is when I put my loop lock solid vinyl cover on it can damage my cover.
25000 IG gunite.
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Re: closing questions?
I would first add the polyquat--FC will drop, all the way to zero probably. Then raise the FC again.
Normally, we don't worry about chlorine damaging vinyl liners unless FC is above 15ppm (but that depends on the CYA level, too). I don't know how that affects vinyl covers--there's different kinds of vinyl.
Still I would, after the polyquat drop, raise FC to a minimum of 10 just to be safe. Still, below 60 you shouldn't see algae growth.
But it's your pool--the final decision is yours.
Carl
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