Deca, good to see you posting!If you have any questions about your AquaTrol, I've recently been certified to work on them by Goldline/Hayward and will help you as needed.
Poolbee, GREAT answer!
To both of you - enjoy your pools!!
Deca, good to see you posting!If you have any questions about your AquaTrol, I've recently been certified to work on them by Goldline/Hayward and will help you as needed.
Poolbee, GREAT answer!
To both of you - enjoy your pools!!
Luv & Luk, Ted
Having done construction and service for 4 pool companies in 4 states starting in 1988, what I know about pools could fill a couple of books - what I don't know could fill libraries
Poolbee and waste:
Thanks for the help... Like I said before... I was here before with my kiddie pool... The help that I got maintaining that was great!!! (Never had a problem with water quality following the directions given here..)
Poolbee - ordered the tft tesk kit and salt strips yesterday!!!
The pool guy that installed my pool gave me a bunch of stuff... chems, test kit etc... he told me to stay from the muriatic acid... gave me pH- instead.
He also gave me a de-calclifier(sp?) should I use it? told me it was optional...
the BS test kit that the pool guy gave me is hard to get a chlorine reading as the yellows blend... but given that it shows very high... havent used the pool yet as it has not been warm enough...
Waste... my question to you is ...
is there any way to lengthen the SWG cable to the box... ??
how accurate is the instant salt PPM on the unit and should I trust it?
what should I use to adjust salt the average (default screen) or the instant?
I know there are a lot of factors that effect chlorine... but since I am having high CH levels how do I go about adjusting the SWG to maintain a high but safe level of chlorine... should I go to 100% and work backward or go low and work up?...
I know the pump needs to run during daylight for ch production... does it need to run at night... if so how long.... in other words how long should I run the timer??
Also.... I had to take the pump offline for a three days.... I am putting up a shed (aka pump house...) What do I need to do to restart the pool... I dont intend to use it for a while.... as I know it would filter and rechlorinate...
Thanks for the compliment Waste! I am reluctant to offer advice as this is only my 3rd year with the pool. You are all good teachers!
Deca, sorry for the delay - I had to go to a family reunion (in-laws) this weekend.
As for the Muriatic, Pat has some posts here about NOT using the pH- on SWCG pools because the sulfides can damage the cells.
There is no way to lengthen the cord without voiding the warrantyDepending on a few variables, especially temp, the unit can read +/- 500 ppm - I trust the default most of the time, I use the instant just to check when the main display is 'funky' You should have the pool circulate a couple hours before fully trusting either - and never trust either until 24 hours after adding salt.
What I start ~ all our SWCG pools at is 50% and adjust from there depending on CYA, sun, usage... before doing any major chemical additions, get the kit, run the tests and post the numbers here - one of us will tell you what you need to add or not add to the pool![]()
Luv & Luk, Ted
Having done construction and service for 4 pool companies in 4 states starting in 1988, what I know about pools could fill a couple of books - what I don't know could fill libraries
No worries, as stated the pump was offline for a few days to get the shed up.
Well got the pump back up an running... going to super chlorinate the pool for the next 12 hrs and run at 50% after... Water is still very clear but there is a lot of dirt.. Plus two days of sun and a good rain must = funky water!!
So use the Muriatic instead of the pH- ? (If I read your post right)
Still waiting on the test kit... should have it in the next day or two... will run tests and post results...
Muriatic acid is fine to use, as long as you don't get careless with it. You definitely don't want to stand downwind and breathe fumes (that hurts, believe me!!) or spill it on yourself or anything around you, but otherwise it's pretty easy to handle. Make sure you thoroughly rinse off any that splashes on the concrete, though, because it leaves pits!
Janet
Well Test results are:
Temp 73
FC 1
CC 0
TC 1
pH 7.2
T/A 50
CH 100
CYA 0
Salt PPM 3300
I cranked the aquatrol to 80% because of the low chlorine. I know I need
add CYA.... anything else....
I would increase the TA to 90-100 using baking soda and add the CYA. If you have a vinyl pool, leave the CH alone. If you have a concrete/plaster pool, then your CH needs to be increased, too.
Janet