Algae...pool store test results

[SoCalBoo]

Anyone know of a test kit that will measure cl to 15. Mine stops at 4.

[Watermom]

Yeah - the one most of us use that Ben sells at the sister site to this forum. www.poolsolutions.com Well worth the money.

In the meantime, you can make your kit test higher by diluting your sample. Mix one part pool water and one part distilled water. Test as usual and then multiply the result by 2. Or, one part pool water, two parts distilled and multiply result by 3, etc. You do lose some accuracy with each dilution, but it is better than nothing. At any rate, think about buying Ben's kit. You won't be sorry.

[CarlD]

Funny you should ask......

The test you want is the FAS-DPD chlorine test, NOT the regular DPD test.

Ben (PoolDoc) has a test kit that is the ace of the crowd--it measures to 100ppm. You order it over on PoolSolutions.com

Then there's the Taylor 2006 kit that's pretty similar.

Taylor also sells a FAS-DPD kit just tests chlorine--to 50 or 100 ppm

Leslie's, on their web site, has a full kit with the DPD-FAS kit. It's branded Leslie's but made for them by Taylor. They also sometimes have, in their stores, the FAS-DPD kit only.

However, if you have a kit that measures to 5ppm, you can triple the range by the CarlD patented (well, not really) shot glass method. Mix 1 shot of pool water with 2 shots of steam distilled water. Use this mix in your chlorine tester and triple whatever you read--so if you read 5 it's really 15ppm.

BTW, getting advice from WaterMom is better than getting it from me--everyone knows she's nicer!

[Watermom]

awwww - now, ain't you sweet!

[SoCalBoo]

Alright, think things are going better. If it is 3 quarts for 2ppm on cl, and I'm at 2 and want to get to 15, I'll need 6 jugs (of the 3 qt variety). Got that part down.

What about solar...should I manually override temp control valve (too cold for solar to run at night) to have the pool water run through the solar pipes, or just wait till in automatically does tomorrow late am?

I read about the aeration method of adding acid...since I am just going for lower ph, does it matter?

Thanks for all the help. Hope none of the questions are stupid...just trying to get my water balanced and not pay someone $100/mo for something that I honestly believe I can do myself.

[PatL34]

Alright, think things are going better. If it is 3 quarts for 2ppm on cl, and I'm at 2 and want to get to 15, I'll need 6 jugs (of the 3 qt variety). Got that part down.

What about solar...should I manually override temp control valve (too cold for solar to run at night) to have the pool water run through the solar pipes, or just wait till in automatically does tomorrow late am?

I read about the aeration method of adding acid...since I am just going for lower ph, does it matter?

Thanks for all the help. Hope none of the questions are stupid...just trying to get my water balanced and not pay someone $100/mo for something that I honestly believe I can do myself.

Watermom gave you the main things to do regarding balancing your water chemistry, with one addition, and that is to vacuum to waste after brushing.

The SWG can be shut off for the time being until the algae is gone, and the chlorine level is down to about 3ppm constantly. Just disconnect the trisensor. There is no need to waste cell life with what you are doing right now. It will also cut down on the muriatic acid use as well.

Once you have brought things to normal with regular bleach, turn the SWG back on, and drop the power level to 2 using 50% as a start.

I am not sure what you mean by using the aeration method of adding acid. That's new one on me. The solar panels are not needed at night unless the water is really warm.

Hope this helps.

Pat

[SoCalBoo]

Pat,

Unplug the trisensor...is that the plug that goes into the cell?

Aeration - look at FAQ sticky under Alkalinity Subtopic

Solar Panels - I was thinking that some water with the bleach should be circulated up there to make sure that algae/'goo' up there gets some...is the 6 hours or so that it is hot enough for the thermostate to open the solar valve enough?

Thanks

[PatL34]

Pat,

Unplug the trisensor...is that the plug that goes into the cell?

Aeration - look at FAQ sticky under Alkalinity Subtopic

Solar Panels - I was thinking that some water with the bleach should be circulated up there to make sure that algae/'goo' up there gets some...is the 6 hours or so that it is hot enough for the thermostate to open the solar valve enough?

Thanks

The trisensor cable is the other one going to the tri-sensor plug before the cell.

Ok. I read the section on aeration with acid, and it is for lowering TA mainly although it will lower pH. If your TA levels are fine, then don't aerate.

There should be no need to run through the solar panels as they are after the filter. When the system is shut down, the panels should drain back to the pool.

Hope this helps.

Pat