I'm not clear what's going on. You have an algae or metals problem -- green -- and you have a brown spots problem --- which is what?? --- and you have a stuff in the skimmers -- again, what's that from?? -- problem.
Can you clarify what the different things are?
As a general rule, if stuff is filtering out, you want to keep filtering. And, if chlorine levels drop OVERNIGHT, you need to keep adding chlorine. During the day, levels can drop because of sunlight, but if they drop overnight, then than almost always means you had stuff in the pool that chlorine is 'burning up'.
Several things to consider here:
FIRST, if your CYA was higher last fall than it is now, there's a good chance you've got stuff in your pool ('waste' products from having bacteria 'eat' your CYA) that will take a LOT of chlorine to get rid of. But, usually this will show up in increased CC levels.
SECOND, if you aren't 'winning' against the algae, it's winning against you. I've seen algae develop that could consume huge amounts of chlorine, at very high levels. If you are not seeing the algae improve, it's winning. If 5 gallons added in the PM doesn't produce improvement by the AM, go to 8 gallons. And if 8 gallons doesn't work, go to 12. [IMPORTANT => I'm assuming you're sure it's algae -- slime on the rails or other smooth surface (liner, but not plaster), is one reliable indicator; yellow or green deposits that brush clear is another.)
THIRD, it's very possible to have BOTH left-over CYA and chlorine resistant algae, and that will definitely make it even harder (ie, require higher levels of chlorine) to clean up.
FOURTH, almost anything you could add to 'help' will make it worse. If you've already added 'helpers', they are probably already part of the problem. This includes things like YellowOUT or Yellow Treat or algicides or clarifiers. If you have added such things, tell us what, since it can affect how to proceed most effectively. Phosphate removers won't make the algae or CYA product problem worse -- might even help with the algae -- but will cloud your pool something terrible, so it will LOOK worse.
FIFTH, sorry you are out of testing stuff. When you refill, don't test that much. Really, the only thing you need to be testing right now is chlorine, PM and AM, and pH -- but no more than 1x per day and ONLY when the chlorine is below 5ppm (or 15ppm with a Taylor kit). But, as long as you aren't adding anything other than bleach, you don't have to test anything but chlorine.
SIXTH, turning off the filter to let things settle is a good idea ONLY after everything is dead . . . and may be not then. Don't do it before the algae has ALL given up the ghost.
SEVENTH, I may have missed it, but I don't see what sort of pool you have. If it's an AG pool with a sand filter, or a small AG pool with any sort of filter except DE, it will take a long time to get back to clear sparkly blue. Trying to hurry won't help. If you REALLY want to hurry, install an oversized DE filter.
EIGHTH, if the problem is clear green WITHOUT algae, it may be iron. Iron can come from well water or old water company distribution pipes. This is a complicated issue, that I don't understand fully, but iron can be in the water in forms that are easy to get out (turns orange instantly in the presence of chlorine) or in forms that are very hard to clean up. If the problem is NOT algae (no slime, no brush-able green), let us know if it's possible that it's iron, ie, did the water in your pool come through iron or steel pipes on the way to your pool.
Good luck!
Ben / PoolDoc

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