Guess my filter... please.

[RbBrdMan]

Thanks for the advice. I would love to get someone out to open the pool for me this year. Any estimates on how much that could cost.

I've already been 'pool-stored' into purchasing about 300 dollars worth of chemicals. I'm not entirely sure if I need all of them. Just a green horn and do not know any better.

Here is the stuff I bought:
25 LBS Bag of DE x2
Pool Perfect Phos Free 3L - x2
Spring/Fall Phos Free - x2
Pool First Aid - x1
Blast box of 8 1LBS packets x 3
Digitial Test strip reader
2 cases liquid pool shock.

Given I have these chemicals would that change the estimate of having someone come out and do this for me?

[waste]

Welcome to the Forum!

That's a Hayward Pro-Grid DE filter (looks like a 4800, which would mean it takes 6 lbs of DE when fully clean and only 5 when you use the backwash function) (as you are new to using a DE filter, you might want to take the time to read the first stickie in the Pool Equipment & Operations section here


It would probably be worth a couple hundred dollars to have someone come out and open your pool and go over how to run the pool with you. I'd advise scheduling it so that you will be there and can see what they do and ask any questions you have.

This is not to say that we can't talk you through it but I feel that if you see what they do and ask your questions while they are there, you'll get a better understanding of what's going on and will be able to do it yourself in the coming years

Please feel free to ask of us any questions you have about your pool. (thank you ! for the pic, if you ever need to replace parts, I'll know the specific part # for you to replace )

[RbBrdMan]

Hi Ted! Thanks for the great info. I am reading through your FAQ post now. It is very detailed. I appreciate the heads up about replacement parts also and will certainly keep you in mind.

You and Ben are right it would be the best idea to have someone out to open it for me, at least the first time. I'm sure I can learn enough to DIY next season. I'd much rather just do it myself this year. Maybe it is an ego thing.. LOL ..

Anyhow, I appreciate your identification of the filter. Do you happen to know if there is an online product manual somewhere for the filter I have. I suspect it is an older model. I have google'd it but can only find a parts diagram not an actual user manual.

Thanks,
RB

[PoolDoc]

Thanks Ted;

Gotta go by SCP and get a 2011 Hayward catalog. I thought I picked one up last year, but I haven't been able to find it.

Ben

[waste]

You're not very likely to find the manual for that filter (the Pro-Grids were replaced by Micro-Clear ~ 10 years ago) - the change also included the band, the band clamp and the air relief/ pressure gauge assembly (yours isn't installed in the pic you posted) - in short, finding parts for the filter will be difficult Here is a thread I started on Hayward's stopping production of certain replacement parts for DE filters on TFP.

You and Ben are right it would be the best idea to have someone out to open it for me, at least the first time. I'm sure I can learn enough to DIY next season. I'd much rather just do it myself this year. Maybe it is an ego thing.. LOL ..

If you are heck bent and determined, you can open the pool yourself, and I'll help you, as best I can from afar, but I DO believe that watching and talking to whoever you hire to open the pool will better get us 'on the same page'

[RbBrdMan]

Well, I took apart the filter last night and this is what it looked like.


I used the awesome post you linked me on how to clean it. Currently it is sitting in a solution of dishwashing fluid and water. I have some muriatic acid I can use next if need be.

Right now I have 2 questions.
1. Should I use some type of grease or lubricant on the O-Ring before I put the cap back on? I assume yes, so what kind?
2. What is the best method to get the cap back on? I read somewhere that if I let the filter fill up and then shut it off with the lid on then the laws of physics will do the work for me and pull the lid back on nice and snug. Is this advisable? Or is there a better method?

Again thanks for all the help so far. The cleaning guide you wrote was fantastic!

RB

[CarlD]

Yipes! Ted is the guy on DE.
I thought it wasn't a cartridge because you have a multi-valve on the side. They are not common on cartridges. Most of the junk (yes, it's junk) from the pool store shouldn't be used. If you can return it, do so. I'd keep the DE and the liquid pool shock, but ONLY if it's sodium hypochlorite. If it's "non-chlorine" get rid of it.

Phosphate remover is the latest junk chemistry the pool companies are pushing. If THAT is your problem you have far worse problems. I don't know anyone who has actually needed that stuff--PoolDoc MAY have, and Waste and Waterbear could as well...maybe.

Not sure what the "blast box" is but I'm guessing it's packets of Cal-hypo or Di-Chlor. If so, you can use those, too.

What is the horsepower on the pump? And how many gallons is the pool?

[waste]

That's quite an algae collection you had there

You want to rinse the o-ring and wipe down the sealing areas on the tank before lubing and reseating the o-ring. The lube should be either Teflon or silicon based (NEVER !!!! use petroleum based lubes on pool parts!!). When cleaning the o-ring or lubing it do not pull on it or stretch it! all you're looking to do is rub the lube on so that the ring doesn't dry rot and will allow the top to slide into place without pinching or tearing the ring.

Getting the clamp back on isn't overly difficult.

1) Lube the o-ring and seat it on the bottom part of the filter.

2) On the top there is a little tab, line that up with the slot on the bottom (where the multiport is) and lower the top onto the bottom as levelly as you can (it's not good to turn the top once it's touching the o-ring).

3) Your band has 2 spring loaded nut assemblies, you removed one nut, spring and the 2 washers to get the band off. Loosen the other nut ~ all the way and put the clamp back on (orient it so that you'll have easy access to both nuts). You should now be able to start the slevednut/ spring & washers assembly that you took off.

4) Tighten the nuts. Go back and forth between the 2 sides so that the 2 gaps in the band remain within ~ 1/8" of each other (we're trying to keep even pressure on the o-ring to insure a proper seal) Do this until the coils on both springs are touching then give each side ~ 1/2 turn further and you should be all set to go

It probably took me longer to type this than it will take you to lube the o-ring and get the filter back together

Keep us posted as to how you are coming along.

[TonyPH12345]

Eww. That's nasty.

1- Yes. Use any silicone based Pool / Spa lubricant. If the gasket is cracked or dry, just replace it (but lube even a new one.) Apply it by squirting a liberal amount (unshelled walnut or pecan sized glob) into your GLOVED HAND. Run the o-ring through the lube so that it is ENTIRELY coated. DO NOT get the stuff on your hands or clothing. While it won't cause any harm, it's nearly IMPOSSIBLE to wash off. It is waterproof, after all. Don't even TRY to get your hand wet if you get it on there. Just wipe as much as you can off with a shop rag or paper towel.
2- When I reassemble mine, I use a healthy amount of lubricant on the o-ring and just use about 40 to 50 pounds of my body weight to seat the lid back down. You shouldn't rely on re-attaching the girdle band to bring them back together...

[waste]

Tony, welcome to the Forum!

You shouldn't rely on re-attaching the girdle band to bring them back together...

May I ask why?