Al's very resourceful. Always has been. And it makes a lot of sense. It doesn't measure capacitance, but does show if it's working or has failed--and that's key.
Carl
Al's very resourceful. Always has been. And it makes a lot of sense. It doesn't measure capacitance, but does show if it's working or has failed--and that's key.
Carl
Carl
That's the nice version of the description for our dear buddy, Al. Resourceful. You guys would be totally amused at some of the 'resourceful' ways that Al solves problems. But, hey --- you need an idea for how to fix something? He's your man. Might not look too pretty, but it'll work.
I must admit he hasn't yet caught a fish through the ice-fishing hole in his pool!
Carl
Resourceful Al:
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PoolDoc / Ben
Great. You found it. Thx, Ben!
That Al. What a goof-ball. Wonder how long it will take him to discover this. And, when he does find it, he can tell you what all of it is for. I *think* the smaller bucket filled with rocks goes inside the orange bucket which is then sunk inside a hole he chips in the ice so he can go ice fishing!![]()
Last edited by Watermom; 05-03-2011 at 06:45 PM.
Talk about hijacking a thread.....haha.
Back on the topic....Carl is right in that the method just tells you of it is shorted, open, or behaving like a cap should. It's actually visually easier with an analog meter, you know the ones with an actual needle as opposed to a digital readout but both work the same way. An ohm meter works by applying a small voltage to the device and measuring the current flow, then calculating resistance.
Keep us posted on your progress.
Al
16'x32' oval 22K gal IG vinyl pool; ; Hayward S244T sand filter; Hayward superpump 1 HP pump; hrs; K-2006; PF:5.5
Thanks Al. Wasn't sure if I replied correctly so resending this to you. Sorry if you got it already. Was able to pull and test the capacitor with a multimeter. Didn't measure capacitance so had to use resistance. Discharged the cap, set the meter to 1k ohms and touched the leads. The needle at rest was on the infinity side of the scale, after touching to the cap it quickly pegged towards 0 then returned immediately to infinity. No slow return as i've seen in other guidance on testing caps. Does this indicate failure?
Was able to disassemble the rear of the motor and observe the following components which i'm not sure if/how they would affect the low speed
terminal plate where the power comes in - a little dirty but no signs of damage
some sort of micro switch with a flat metal lead that protrudes towards the motor shaft - tested with the meter for continuity and moved the switch, seems to be ok. What exactly is this switch?
about a 1" dia klixon thermal protector (I believe) Could this have been damaged and cause low speed to hum? Can it be checked? Anyone know where to find one if I need it?
Also, as I removed the end cap a plastic collar came out in two pieces which I believe was some sort of collar that was attached to a rotating (centrifugal) switch on the motor shaft. What does this control? Could the broken collar have affected the switch or is it just some sort of dirt/debris collar?
Lastly, some info on the motor which might be helpful
Century Magnetek 230V
2 speed 1.5/.25 HP
Type CXPM
Frame 56Y
Serial BR4-223
Part 177144
Encl DP
ALso have a pic of the end cap which would probably be helpful but didn't know how to attach to reply.
Thanks again
Thanks to all for the assistance. Was able to pull and test the capacitor with a multimeter. Didn't measure capacitance so had to use resistance. Discharged the cap, set the meter to 1k ohms and touched the leads. The needle at rest was on the infinity side of the scale, after touching to the cap it quickly pegged towards 0 then returned immediately to infinity. No slow return as i've seen in other guidance on testing caps. Does this indicate failure? Was able to disassemble the rear of the motor and observe the following components which i'm not sure if/how they would affect the low speed
terminal plate where the power comes in - a little dirty but no signs of damage
some sort of micro switch with a flat metal lead that protrudes towards the motor shaft - tested with the meter for continuity and moved the switch, seems to be ok. What exactly is this switch?
about a 1" dia klixon thermal protector (I believe) Could this have been damaged and cause low speed to hum? Can it be checked? Anyone know where to find one if I need it?
Also, as I removed the end cap a plastic collar came out in two pieces which I believe was some sort of collar that was attached to a rotating switch on the motor shaft. What does this control? Could it's failure have affected the switch or is it just some sort of dirt/debris collar?
Lastly, some info on the motor which might be helpful
Century Magnetek 230V
2 speed 1.5/.25 HP
Type CXPM
Frame 56Y
Serial BR4-223
Part 177144
Encl DP
ALso have a pic of the end cap which would probably be helpful but didn't know how to attach.
Thanks again