Help - brown stinky dark murky pool

[duraleigh]

Doc,

I am going to assume that test was after all the stuff you added. If not, you'll need to post new numbers and disregard what I say.

Download mwsmith2's calc from any of his posts and learn how to calc Cl using bleach and how much muriatic to add to lower your pH

Get some muriatic acid at Lowes/HD and keep your pH in the 7.2 - 7.6 range. Do that first.

You are going to need a truckload of bleach!! Bring your Cl level up to about 16--20ppm and KEEP IT THERE through the whole process. Run your pump 24/7. Don't be surprised if you don't have to add more Cl every 6 hours to get back up to 16-20ppm.

Constantly keeping your Cl at high levels will clear your pool. You will need to clean that DE filter many times during clean-up as the pressure builds.......I have a sand filter and can't advise you on that.

Keep a close eye on your pH. The calculator will tell you how much muriatic you need to lower it .2.

This process may take several days....it depends on how willing you are to test and add bleach as needed.

I understand what you say about getting lost....that's enough info for now. Get a test kit (not strips) that will test for pH, Cl (at least to 5ppm), and Alk for now. We'll adjust your other numbers later.

Trust this process. It may take longer than you like but you'll get there if you stick with it. Don't get distracted by peripheral issues or pool store products. This is all you'll need for now.

PS...Kurt and I posted at the same time....Kurt, I'm recommending the high Cl level because A) it's a concrete pool and B) If the water is that murky, the ppm will never get to it's target level. It will be consumed very rapidly and a dose of about 20 may only get to 15ppm and then start back down. Like Kurt said, I'd get rid of the pucks. they're simply a distraction an will eventually add too much CYA to your pool.

[CarlD]

To raise your FC 5.25ppm, you need 3 gallons of regular bleach. Therefore 4 wasn't enough. I would have added 9 gallons of regular bleach, or 1.5 gallons of 12% (if you can get fresh liquid chlorine).

You'll need to raise FC to 15 2 to 3 times a day.

[pairadocs]

To raise your FC 5.25ppm, you need 3 gallons of regular bleach. Therefore 4 wasn't enough. I would have added 9 gallons of regular bleach, or 1.5 gallons of 12% (if you can get fresh liquid chlorine).

You'll need to raise FC to 15 2 to 3 times a day.

Thank you all for the quick replies.

Carl - I added 4 gallons of regular household bleach. I guess I need 5 more. Will do and retest in tomorrow.

Duraleigh - the numbers I posted were actually before anything was added, so I did as you instructed, and disregarded what you posted.

Curt - I can't vacuum! because I can't see the bottom of the pool. INstead I tried brushing the side walls.

When will I be able to see the bottom?

What about algicide polyquat stuff?

What is this brown dark haze lingering top to bottom in my pool keeping me from seeing the bottom? Is it algae?

thanks again. I'll keep checking back and reading more. Will try to do the calc thing, but i'm not to optimistic that i will be successful in computing that stuff. I'm more of a tell-me-how-much-of-what-and-I'll-do-what-you-say kinda guy

[pairadocs]

Doc,


Download mwsmith2's calc from any of his posts and learn how to calc Cl using bleach and how much muriatic to add to lower your pH

Get some muriatic acid at Lowes/HD and keep your pH in the 7.2 - 7.6 range. Do that first.

.

I added 20 pounds of dryacid (sodium bisulfate) stuff from pool store first.

HOw does this compare to muriatic acid?

Should I switch to MA if the ph isn't holding in the range suggested on tomorrow's test?

Why is MA better when compared to the stuff I used?

Thanks again.

[duraleigh]

Doc,

None of your questions are pertinent if you are not able to calculate the correct quantities you need to clear your water.

[pairadocs]

Doc,

None of your questions are pertinent if you are not able to calculate the correct quantities you need to clear your water.

Gee, thanks - If I was able to do that, then I wouldn't be here on this forum looking for help. INstant mathematician this forum does not make, maybe you it did, but not me, not yet. I'm just looking for help, trying to learn from others who are helpful, and probably had the same questions as me initially.

[Watermom]

I wish I could give you an answer to your question about muriatic acid vs. sodium bisulfate, but I don't know anything about sodium bisulfate. However, I will say that you are definitely at the right place for some help. There are lots of people on this forum who are willing to help. Hopefully somebody will come along soon who will know the difference between the two. By the way, welcome to the forum.

[duraleigh]

Your reluctance to use the bleach calc implied to me you wouldn't be willing to do the work this would take. Read everything you can on this forum to start.

Since your test numbers were before you added the things in your first post, you'll need to post up some new numbers for Free Chlorine, Combined Chlorine, pH, Alkalinity, Calcium Hardness and Cyanurid Acid. That'll give us a baseline that we all can work from.

[waterbear]

Muriatic acid is more efficient and less costly than dry acid but it is not as nice to work with. It's biggest plus is that it is only adding chloride ions to the pool while dry acid (sodium bisulfate) will add sulfate ions to the pool. There has been some indication in some quarters that sulfates can possibly damage plaster but the jury seems to still be out on that and many people have used dry acid for years with no problems.

IMHO, put as little extra stuff in your water that you can and use the most efficient and economical product to get the job done. For lowering pH that would be muriatic acid.l

[pairadocs]

Muriatic acid is more efficient and less costly than dry acid but it is not as nice to work with. It's biggest plus is that it is only adding chloride ions to the pool while dry acid (sodium bisulfate) will add sulfate ions to the pool. There has been some indication in some quarters that sulfates can possibly damage plaster but the jury seems to still be out on that and many people have used dry acid for years with no problems.

IMHO, put as little extra stuff in your water that you can and use the most efficient and economical product to get the job done. For lowering pH that would be muriatic acid.l

Thank you for the kind, simple, and informative answer. It's nice to know there are forum members like you that newbs can rely on.



My plan is to test the water tomorrow morning, but these questions are just driving me nuts. Really, the brown mudhole of a pool is driving me nuts.

Carl - I did what you said, and added 9 gallons of regular household bleach, and have added sodium bisulfate acid to lower pH from 8 to hopefully a better range.

I'm still left wondering the following:

Why should I remove the pucks? How troublesome is it to leave them in - I take it they may cause trouble with balancing and calculations, right?

When to put the pucks back in? - Is the answer to that not until pool is clear and balanced?

Is the brown pool most likely due to 'green' algae?

If this is algae, is polyquat not effective enough since it is more algaestatic than algaecidal?

Is the best algae killer chlorine and proper pH? Or should I search out a better algae killer specific product?

Can't wait for the sun to come up sunday and continue my pursuit of a clear pool