Aloha!

[wcvresmgr]

Update:

Here's my findings-
9/12/11 @ 10pm-
Actual FC- 2ppm. Dumped 512oz of 10% bleach to bring it to 10ppm.
- note: water was as clear as can be. No cloudiness.

Tested 9/13/11 @830am-
Actual FC- 6ppm.

Findings-
The pool size was said to be at 50,000 but was never for sure when I came onboard. In doing the calculations, if I had an actual FC of 2ppm and after dumping 512oz. of 10% bleach it was raised to 6ppm- that would mean that we have a 100,000 gal pool on our hands! In using the pool calculator I was depending on the gallon size to be right and assuming that was the amounts of bleach I needed to add at night and not checking the following morning to be sure of the levels- As I said I ASSUMED. This would also explain why the FC count was so low previously as we were not even bringing it up to where it should be(using the best guess chart). I know there could be some inconsistancy due to junk in the water killing off the CH before the end of the night, so in that case, I will be doing the same test for the next 3 nights to give me an average. I will post my findings.

Thank you,

Zach

[PoolDoc]

I'll try to respond more, tomorrow.

But two points:

Unless the 10% bleach is being MANUFACTURED in Hawaii, it's VERY unlikely that your 10% bleach contains 10% bleach. To do so, it would have to be either (a) high purity bleach, OR (b) refrigerated on the boat from the mainland, OR (c) brought in air freight. (A) is possible but uncommon; (B) & (C) are almost certainly not true.

The reason: regular bleach, above 7%, breaks down pretty quickly at hot temperatures, with rate dependent on concentration, metal content (iron & nickel), and temperature. 15% bleach can go to 7.5% in a week at temps above 90 degrees.

Secondly, commercial pool chlorine loss is often mostly a function of how many sweaty, oily bodies go into the pool per day. This chlorine demand is somewhat independent of gallons.