You're welcome.
You're welcome.
By watermom told me to get water test. Results r free chlorine - 0 ppm. I knew that's was gonna be like that cause o have not ran my pool since last year. pH - 7.6. Alkalinity -100 ppm. Calcium hardness 160 ppm. Cyanuric acid- 25 ppm. The multi- value I ordered should be in this week then I can cut the pool on. Now were do I go from here? Thanks!!!
I did also go to Sam' s Club and got chlorine tablets, chlorine granules, baking soda and shock packets.
Last edited by Watermom; 03-27-2012 at 06:21 PM. Reason: merge posts
List the chemical ingredients of the chlorine tablets, chlorine granules, baking soda and shock packets for better advice.
12'x24' oval 7.7K gal AG vinyl pool; ; Hayward S270T sand filter; Hayward EcoStar SP3400VSP pump; hrs; K-2006; PF:16
Report back with ingredients as Dave suggested, get the equipment hooked up and let us know when you are up and running and we'll help you get it clear.
I can tell you what she's got -- if it's "PoolBrand". The granules are straight dichlor (50#), as are the shock packets. The tablets are 3" trichlor (40#, I think), and the baking soda . . . is baking soda
Given that she's got a swamp, it's probably not too much. She will need a K2006, to be able to gauge what's going on.
As someone who has done this several times, why not just dump and refill?
~18K gal IG Gunite -- 1-HP Pentair Whisper Flo with new 2-speed motor. Intermatic T1000 Dual Speed Timer -- Tagelus 60D sand filter
Hayward SWCG (up to 40K gal.) -- Polaris 280 and booster pump -- Rainbow (now Pentair) in-line chlorine Feeder.
She has an in-ground vinyl pool -- dumping and refilling without professional help will almost certainly destroy the liner.
Draining an AG pool is usually not a big deal. Draining an IG *gunite* pool is not a big deal UNLESS the ground is very wet. Draining a vinyl pool is hard to do correctly, and requires a high suction / high volume air blower.
PoolDoc / Ben
I didn't know that about vinyl pools. I have dumped and refilled my gunite pool several times.
~18K gal IG Gunite -- 1-HP Pentair Whisper Flo with new 2-speed motor. Intermatic T1000 Dual Speed Timer -- Tagelus 60D sand filter
Hayward SWCG (up to 40K gal.) -- Polaris 280 and booster pump -- Rainbow (now Pentair) in-line chlorine Feeder.
Ok PoolDoc is right. I do have poolbrand. I don't know what (50#) or (40#) mean but the active ingredient in the granules is : Sodium Dichloro 99% and the 3" chlorine tablets : Trichloro: 99%. I have ordered that K2006 test kit but have not received it yet. The shock has both sodium Dichloro -s-99% Triazinetrione hydrate: 99%. And baking soda is plain baking soda. Oh the available chlorine in the granules is 55.5%. The available chlorine in the 3"chlorine tablets is 90%.I have replaced the parts now I am ready to go!
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Also after reading other post last year I thought I had some something wrong and my liner got stained. I believe I have to much metal in my water how do I test and treat for this? Will that K2006 test kit but do that?
Last edited by PoolDoc; 04-15-2012 at 07:54 PM. Reason: merging multiple posts
40,000 gallon (?) in-ground vinyl liner pool with sand filter.
OK. We'll work with the 25ppm CYA, and let you correct that once you have the K2006.
50# = 50lbs. The Sams' buckets are 50# of dichlor, and 40# of trichlor. The "shock" is EXACTLY the same thing as the dichlor bucket.
It's possible that it would be best, if you could return some of those chemicals -- if you use all of everything this year, your stabilizer will be high enough to be an issue. Or maybe not. It depends on how you want to run your pool.
If you haven't opened anything, open either the shock or the dichlor, and start adding 4 lbs -- 8 of the little cups -- of dichlor per day. The best way is to add it to the skimmer -- assuming NOTHING else is in there, except water! Your pH and alkalinity will start going down, as you use the dichlor. Don't worry about (or even test!) the calcium, alkalinity or CYA again, for awhile. But do test your pH, and don't let it go below 7.0. When it gets near 7.0, start adding borax along with your dichlor, one box at a time.
If you got a cheap OTO / phenol red kit, you can use it and only use the K2006 every 2nd or 3rd test.
Let me ask some questions, since the best way to proceed depends on your answers. Please send in answers to these questions:
+ What are your pool's dimensions (at least, length and width)?
+ What is the make and model of your filter and pump?
+ Do you have any sort of feed system -- mineral, trichlor, SWCG -- that plan to use?
+ When do you (or your family) want to start swimming? (ASAP, next week, in May, etc.)
+ Are your pump and filter running, and working normally?
+ You have stains, now? Where, and what color?
+ You indicate you think you have too much metal in your pool water -- are you adding metals to your pool ('minerals', algaecide, what?)
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Assuming 40K gal is correct (give us dimensions, if possible, so we can confirm -- a LOT of people are told the wrong size on their pools), your pool is 1/3 of a millions pounds of water . . . which means 1# of something that's 100% active will give you 3 ppm of that thing in your pool. For example, 1# of chlorine gas will add 3 ppm of chlorine to your pool; 1# of trichlor will add 2.7 ppm (3 x .9).
So with (((50 + 24) * 0.55) + (40 * 0.9)) * 3 = 230 ppm of chlorine in your pool (if you added it all at once)
And since both add stabilizer: ((74 * 0.5) + (40 * 0.55)) * 3 = 177 ppm CYA
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Last edited by PoolDoc; 04-04-2012 at 05:44 PM. Reason: add ?'s to go with post that was waiting in queue
PoolDoc / Ben