Please Help!!!! Swamp pool

[PoolDoc]

OK.

16 x 30 pool? Maybe, 16 x 32? That's a more common liner pool dimension. But, I'm sure somewhere, somebody has made a 16 x 30 liner. Regardless: a 16 x 32 rectangular liner pool with a deep end typically runs 20,000 gallons, not 40,000.

Hayward S200 sand filter? And a Hayward chlorinator? Inline, or off line? The inline models are a TERRIBLE flow restrictor.

Dark brown stains at the water line often involve liner deterioration, sometimes because people have used acidic pool cleaners! But sometimes they are just people goo (lotion, body oils, etc.) Try scrubbing a spot with a thick baking soda paste on a damp sponge. If that helps, then that's a safe-for-vinyl clean up method. If it doesn't help . . . you may be stuck.

Metal stains are not usually going to be at the water line.

Is your pump running yet? Have you begun dosing with dichlor, per my earlier instructions? Are there leaves and branches on the bottom of the pool? Sludge? Have you vacuumed the pool yet?

Anyhow, as soon as you get the K2006, test your pool water, and let us know what you've got.

[TheGoose]

Ben does that mean my "rainbow" brand (think it's now under pentair) is also a great restrictor? Never heard that before.

[PoolDoc]

No, it's much, much better. It's almost equivalent to an open 2" T, where the inline Hayward literally won't pass a quarter dollar coin!

[michelle king]

19 Apr 2012
=============================================
Yes i have been treating and running my pool for about 3 days now.I have gotten pretty much all the leaves out. No i have not vacuumed yet. I will test the water and send u the results. Yes my feeder is inline.

24 Apr 2012
==============================================
I have never used this kind of test kit before what do i need to do, what all am i testing for? I have always used the simple tset kit this thing has like 20 bottles in it! lol

[PoolDoc]

I have always used the simple tset kit this thing has like 20 bottles in it!

The most critical test readings, right now, are the ones for chlorine, both free and combined, and for pH, and for stabilizer. Those are the numbers we need in order to get an idea of where you are, and how to move forward.

The kit contains all of the following tests:

• Free and combined chlorine levels (chlorine that's ready-to-work, and chlorine that's partially used up)
• pH (how acidic -- like lemon; or basic -- like soda; your pool water is)
• acid and base demand (how much acid or base it will take to change your pH to a different value)
• alkalinity (how resistant to pH change your water is)
• calcium (how much calcium is in your water)
• stabilizer (how much cyanuric acid is in your water)

It's not necessary to understand all these, yet. We can do that bit for you, for now. Just get a large pool water sample, in a measuring cup, and a stainless mixing bowl, and sit down at your kitchen table with the test kit and instructions, and carefully work through the tests, one at a time. I know it seems kind of overwhelming -- but if you just go through the tests like a robot, carefully following the instructions, it will rapidly become routine and not-so-complicated after all.

Be careful about the CYA test, however. It is an IMPORTANT test, and there's only enough reagent to to it 6 or 7 times. It's really very simple: fill the little flip top bottle 1/2 with pool water, and the rest of the way with the CYA reagent. Mix, and wait at least a minute. Mix again, wait another minute. Take the test block and look down in the small side -- you'll see a black dot there. Begin adding the mix from the flip top bottle, checking to see if the cloudiness in the mix obscures the dot. Continue adding mix till you can no longer see the dot. Then read your CYA level from the outside of the kit. If the mix is clear, and does NOT obscure the dot, your CYA level = 0.

Good luck!

Ben

[Watermom]

Some of those tests will be used infrequently. I use the alk tests when I open the test while I am adjusting my alk level if needed, then maybe do them once a month. I don't use my acid and base demands tests at all as my pH is very stable. Also, since I have a vinyl pool and don't use any cal-hypo, I don't worry about the calcium hardness test. You'll get the hang of the tests!

This demo may be helpful to you.
http://www.taylortechnologies.com/Ch...P?ContentID=11