+ Reply to Thread
Results 1 to 10 of 17

Thread: Cyanuric acid missing

Hybrid View

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Largo, Florida
    Posts
    504

    Default Re: C-y-a

    While you wait for PoolDoc to answer your swcg question with more authority, I thought I'd share my experience since you were asking.

    IMO, a swcg won't really save you any money, since you have to pay so much up front. Also, you have to regularly add muriatic acid to the pool and periodically (maybe once a quarter for me) add some additional salt due to splashout, and maintain a fairly high CYA level (sounds like you already do that, though). What it does do is saves me time. Once I got the output pretty much dialed in, my chlorine level is just nothing to worry about. I clean the pool, test the water pretty frequently but I hardly ever add anything other than the things I mentioned above. Basically, I love my swcg. It came with the house/pool when I bought it, but was not functioning until I replaced the control board. I greatly prefer adding acid weekly (actually every 2-3 weeks now that I added borates) instead of adding chlorine daily.

    Also things like a week or so on vacation become much less stressful with regards to your pool. I just came back from a week and a half road trip to Nashville, TN. Came home to a clear pool with leaves in it, but the chemical levels were all still right were I wanted them and it was a matter of scooping out the stuff that had blown in.

    One important thing to consider with a swcg is if you have any metals in or around your pool. If they're not treated for salt water, they will corrode. This includes heaters. Also, if your pool is still under warranty you should check to see that salt water wouldn't void your warranty.
    rectangle 11.5K gal IG concrete pool;; 125sf cartridge filter; 2hp 1 speed pump; K-2006, k-1766; PF:10

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    North Alabama
    Posts
    27

    Default Re: C-y-a

    kelemvor thanks for the info, the money for me is not as big of an issue as time. I am trying to get my swcg dialed in now. I am trying different run times and percentages right now. My goal was to hopefully have everything squared away by May 1. Hope you had a good time in Nashville, I just got back myself. My son was taking some classes at Vanderbilt. Very nice campus and community.
    30000 gal 20*40 vinyl IG pool w/sand filter. ROLL TIDE

  3. #3
    PoolDoc's Avatar
    PoolDoc is offline Administrator Quark Inspector PoolDoc 5 stars PoolDoc 5 stars PoolDoc 5 stars PoolDoc 5 stars PoolDoc 5 stars PoolDoc 5 stars PoolDoc 5 stars
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Georgia
    Posts
    11,207

    Default Re: C-y-a

    Hi Smile;

    Just commenting here on the expected vs actual CYA levels. There's a good chance your pool is not 36,000 gallons. It's visible on Google Maps, and looks like standard rectangle liner pool with 4' radius corners, 3.5' WATER depth in the shallow end and maybe a 9' hopper. Keep in mind, builders and liner makers tend to quote gallons at overflow, not at operating depth!

    I ran these calculations:

    Top 3.5' of entire pool:
    20 * 40 * 3.5 * 7.48 = 20,944 gal (this overstates gallons, due to rounded corners and beveled wall to floor transitions)

    Hopper only, going from 3.5 water depth to 8.5' water depth - avg depth = 1/2 of difference (again, an over-estimate, but I'm not going to do a more accurate calculation yet.)
    20 * 25 * 2.5 * 7.48 = 9,350

    So, your likely actual water volume may be closer to 30,000 gallons, than to 36,000. Even a 10' nominal hopper (9.5 water depth) would only take you to 31,000 gallons.

+ Reply to Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts