Pool Opening Problems.

[TheGoose]

Measured with Taylor kit today:
FC = 6.5
CC = 1.0-1.5
As measured with .5 accuracy

pH = 7.2

For the fist time this season I was able to measue CYA. Unfortunately I ran out of column before the dot disappeared. Needless to say, CYA was added. Estimate current level at just under 30 ppm.

Suprisingly I have not had a lot of trouble keeping the FC levels up. We are starting to see lots of sun lately though after a few weeks of clouds and rain.

BTW the water is looking fairly decent now. It has a blueish tone fairly even now and seems to be getting clearer, but it is still somewhat murky.

Filter pressure was runing ~28 psi last night but I shut the pump off for a little while this morning and today the pressure is runing slightly lower at ~25. Water pressure at the jets seems pretty good so I'm gonna let it stay there for awhile.

[Watermom]

If you have a CC reading of 1.0-1.5, then you need to shock the pool back up to around 10-12. You want the CC reading to be 0.

[TheGoose]

I did shock it back up. I have been shocking at least twice a day everyday. The OTO test actually got me pretty close on FC.

Water looking much better but still murky.

[TheGoose]

FC = ~ 6-8 as measured with OTO
CC = not measured today
pH = 7.2 and seems pretty steady.
CYA not measured for a couple more days.

Water color is much better. Getting to the right shade of blue. Clarity is only slightly improved. Filter pressure running about 25 psi, base pressure about 18-20.

[TheGoose]

FC = 8.6 as measured by Taylor kit
CC = .8-1.0 using .2 ppm drops
pH = 7.0-7.2 (colors are too close for me)
TA = 80
CYA = 60

Water color is about the same...clarity is only slightly improved. Filter running about 25 psi.

[TheGoose]

Numbers from 4-22

FC = 8.0
CC = 1.0-1.5 both measured with .5 drops
pH = 7.0-7.1....might have dropped a hair. Need to get some mule team.
TA = 90

CYA not measured.
CH not measured.

Water still cloudy, filter still running 24-7.

I read somewhere that my CH could be causing the cloudiness. Something about the "Saturation Index" or something like that.

I have never measured the CH as being super high, most of my tests show it about 200, but I read that you can have false results. I have noticed that the colors change kinda funny.

Any opinions on the CH causing me problems? I will measure again tonight. I have been using cal hypo with bleach to shock the pool, but I felt that since my CH numbers were not high I was OK. I am measuring CH about once a week.

Water color is whitish blue. Just murky. I am strongly considering going back to DE, this sand filter just isn't doing a good job IMO.

[PoolDoc]

Hi Goose;

-- I edited your posts some for spacing and such so I could read through them more easily --

CH doesn't cause cloudiness unless you precipitate calcium carbonate, usually by dumping in cal hypo, bicarb, or pH up. It doesn't look like you've done so, I don't really suspect that suspended CaCO3 is the issue.

Two suggestions:

1. If you haven't already, check your filter. It sounds like your Whisperflo *may* have been big enough (25psi starting pressure!!??) to blow sand out of the filter during backwash. If you have lost sand, that will DEFINITELY cause 'failure to filter'.

2. Go ahead and get that pump running on 2-speed. Either get a timer or a DPDT motor rated toggle switch. Both the correct timer, and the correct toggle are often hard to find locally, but Amazon has them:

Intermatic T10604R Pool/Spa Control Center T106M and T104M @ Amazon
Southwire 55189301 3/4-Inch 6-Feet ULTRA Whip-Pre-Assembled with Wires and Connectors @ Amazon
Leviton 1282 15 Amp, 120/277 Volt, Toggle Double Throw @ Amazon

You'll need EITHER the timer OR the toggle, but not both. Boxes are available locally. You'll need TWO of the whips (or the local equivalent), one from your panel to the toggle/timer, and one from the toggle/timer to the pump. Your electrician will need to add a FOURTH wire to the whip that goes to the pump, to accommodate the switching. Do NOT let your electrician use metallic flex; do mandate a WIRED ground to the pump (no conduit grounds!!) no matter what the National Electric Code allows.

Also, you DO need the dual timer, because it has to be set up to START on high, and THEN switch to low. The only way to use a single timer, is if you plan to run the pump 24/7 on EITHER low or high. Even then, the dual timer is safer, since you can restart it 2x daily, to make SURE that it's primed. Pumps can lose prime during a power outage, and then start back on low, allowing the pump to run dry when it fails to prime.

Running on low speed will GREATLY increase your filter's ability to remove fine particles.