cloudy water

[PoolDoc]

1. If you have NO test kit, go to Walmart or wherever, and a get a cheap OTO/phenol red drops kit. (NOT: strips!)
2. Make sure the pH is more than 7.0 and less than 8.0; otherwise don't worry about it now.
3. Add 2 gallons of plain 6% household bleach tomorrow evening; test the chlorine the following AM (Wednesday)
4. List, by exact product name, the pool chemicals you have in your possession . . . but DO NOT use them.
5. Run your pump & filter 24/7.
6. If you have a valve that will allow you to SLOW the water flow to 1/2, without over-pressuring your filter, do so.
7. Order a good kit (Taylor K2006, or an add on, if you have a K-2005). Kit info page link in my signature.
8. List the pump and filter you have by make, model, & size.
9. If you've got any specific questions, ask them when you post test results.
10. Use 6% bleach to maintain chlorine levels in the "dark yellow" zone, till we've worked out a plan.
11. If you've got algae on the bottom, add 2 gallons of bleach and then brush AFTER you've added the bleach.
12. As needed, use muriatic acid to LOWER your pH -- approx 1/2 gallon at a time. (Instruction page!)
13. Use 20 Mule Team borax to RAISE your ph, 1 box at a time added SLOWLY to the skimmer with the pump on.
14. Otherwise, we'll give you next steps when we here from you.

Do NOT use the sodium bromide material; there may be a time you use that, but it's not now, and not soon! The other materials can be used us later.

[Zac851]

The sand filter is a Hayward Pro Series Model S244T
The Motor says A.O. Smith Corp
Model - C48L2N134C1
Chlorine feeder - CL200

[PoolDoc]

It's confusing, but motors have separate models and info from pump (motor + wet end). An AO Smith C48L2N134C1 is a 1.5HP motor, though I don't know if it's 'uprate' or 'full rate'.

But anyhow, what we need is the PUMP model, which should be on a label somewhere on the wet end. Regardless, knowing that it's a 1.5 HP, we almost certainly know it's too big for your filter, which means your filter has probably lost sand during backwash . . . .which means it may not filter very well.

Adding sand to a S244T is a pain, unless you happen to have unions in place to make it easy. So, unless you have a "must be clear by May X" deadline, it would probably be better to test it with DE powder. Take look at the links, and see if you can find some locally -- you only need a couple of pounds to test the filter, but you can use more, to help clean up the mess:

Diatomaceous Earth Pool Filter D.E. 25 lbs



To test your filter, just add a couple of pounds (a couple of quarts) to the skimmer, and then go watch one of the returns. If you see white DE powder shoot back into the pool . . . you're going to have to work on your filter.

[Zac851]

Brushed and added the bleach (2gallons)about 6am this morning and then tested about ten minutes ago.

I came up with:
Free chlorine - 0.5
Combined chlorine - was I between the 0.6 reading and 1.0 so I guess I'll go with middle which is 0.8
pH seemed higher today. I came up with 7.8 on my cheap little tester. Ill check for that de powder tomorrow at a little pool place by my work.

Here's a pic of the label in the motor -- [RMVD - PoolDoc]

[PoolDoc]

Yeah, I looked at your motor label -- but that's what it is; a motor label. The pump label is on the wet end of things.

3. Add 2 gallons of plain 6% household bleach tomorrow evening; test the chlorine the following AM (Wednesday)

Up the dose to 4 gallons, and add it in the EVENING. Let us know when you get the K-2006 -- we need FC, CC, and CYA readings in particular. (And no, you can't trust your pool store tests -- a few are trustworthy, most aren't, and the only way to tell the difference is to compare their results with your K-2006 results . . . !)

[Zac851]

Sorry, I should have read more closely.. Also I thought the pump/motor were all one unit. I'll look on it tonight and see if there is any model number or label anywhere else that I didnt see and I'll add more bleach tonight and check it in the morning with my little walmart kit before I leave for work and post up.

K-2006 is ordered and on the way. I bought the cheaper 3/4oz version. Hopefully that will last me through the summer.

The water was much more clear this morning than it ever has been so far. I could see the bottom on the shallow end now.

[Watermom]

You can use a cheaper OTO/Phenol Red kit for daily testing and use the Taylor K-2006 for once a week or so testing. Unless you are clearing up a problem of some type or tweaking any chemistry levels. In those cases, you would use the K-2006 more often. The one test you quickly run out of is the CYA test. So, use those sparingly. You can always order refills for reagents you need to replace without ordering a whole new kit.