Sorry Justin;

We've been slammed with traffic, and I'm not keeping up.

1. Think twice about using the Phos-free stuff. It will cloud your pool for days, and my guess is you are trying to open this weekend.

2. If you have access to a Sams Club and can buy their PoolBrand dichlor 50lb buckets, I'd recommend buying (3) of those, and using dichlor to chlorinate AND add stabilizer. If you can do that, take the stabilizer back.

3. If you also have access to cal hypo in 50 or 100lb buckets, I'd recommend using THOSE as a the primary source of chlorine (once you have used the dichlor). Cal hypo adds both chlorine AND calcium, so if you have access to cal hypo, take the calcium hardness back.

4. If they are selling you the sodium bicarbonate at less than $0.50/lb keep it, otherwise you can get it cheaper at Sams.

5. You need a K-2006C test kit PLUS an OTO kit for daily tests. If Walmarts in your area handle the HTH 6-way, I'd recommend buying (2) of those and (1) K-2006 for your testing.

6. What is your daily swimmer load?

7. Do you have health inspection on the pool?

8. If you do NOT have health inspection, I'd recommend running very high CYA levels, which will allow you to dose chlorine 2x - 3x per week and STILL maintain good sanitation in between. One of the huge problems on commercial pools is maintaining adequate chlorination with varying loads AND varying staff. With high CYA *and* high chlorine, you can store large quantities of chlorine IN the pool water, which allows you to have the 1 or 2 competent people you may have do all the chemistry.

Good luck!