Liquid stabilizer is fine, except for the cost.
50 - 60 ppm CYA is fine for general operations. Higher is good if you are going to use unstabilized chlorine exclusively or with SWCGs. Lower is good if you ARE going to use stabilized chlorine.
Liquid stabilizer is fine, except for the cost.
50 - 60 ppm CYA is fine for general operations. Higher is good if you are going to use unstabilized chlorine exclusively or with SWCGs. Lower is good if you ARE going to use stabilized chlorine.
Tested pool at 7:20pm, FC was at 8ppm.. Water was much nicer looking but still cloudy so dumped another gallon in. Have a big line of storms about to roll through so had to dump it in at dusk.. see what we got tomorrow.
Again I would like to know how I got this algae bloom with a low CYA and atleast 4ppm FC. I think my red/yellow test kit was lying to me.
24' Round 52" (44"/12450gal) Deep Namco Morada - ClearWater 22" Sand Filter - 1.5HP (SPL) Speck Pump - Taylor K-2006C Test Kit
They don't. OTO is not the most accurate test, but it is the most goof-proof. It said you had chlorine: you had chlorine.
I can't remember if your a guy or a gal . . . but I learned the hard way (working with 100's of lifeguards over the years) that some guys, who aren't color-blind, are color-dumb and have to be trained to pay attention to colors. I hired a guy like that -- did color blindness tests with him, which he passed fine. But he was reporting bogus test results on customer pools because he just had never bothered to pay attention to color differences. Took 6 weeks of hounding him, to get him to make the effort to make the distinction. I ran into the problem multiple times over the years. I actually never had a guard who was physically too color blind to read the kits, but we found a number who couldn't be trusted to pay attention to small color increments.
Dunno if that's the issue, or not. But there are other potential problems. If you have moderate chlorine, very low CYA, and very high pH, your chlorine will be ineffective.
I'm a guy.
The Ph test on the was tricky..as my kits color range was orange to purple but most of my readings ended up being red. When I got the Taylor test kit is was peach... So one would make me believe my pool had low Ph (Roy g Biv) while the k2006 said I was low but not as low as the basic kit.
The oto chlorine test was hard to mess up. Shades of yellow are easy to pick out. Mine always tested at at least 4 or higher. 4 was the highest it went so it could have been more.. but can't see how it could have been less.
24' Round 52" (44"/12450gal) Deep Namco Morada - ClearWater 22" Sand Filter - 1.5HP (SPL) Speck Pump - Taylor K-2006C Test Kit
It happened; dunno why, except that low chlorine . . . or ineffective chlorine . . . was probably involved
Unless there's some other explanation I don't know about. But, if there is / was, by now the data that would explain it is down the drain, or in the backwash, or hauled away by your garbage guy.
. . . moving on . . .
No conspiracy here. Using the same Target brand bleach since opening the pool. Maybe its these "slo-poke" hockey pucks or the low pH? I have this proline chlorinator with 2 3" pucks in it.. is there anything better I could use the feeder for?
Good news I suppose. Last night I was at 8, added a gallon of bleach should have put me at around 12.5.. woke up this morning and pool is still at 12.5.. pool is still not clear but filter has been running non stop so im guessing its just dirt/dead stuff floating around in there. Ill let it settle today and see what it looks like when I get home from work.
Also, i did the CC test after the FC test and 5 drops didnt turn the water any color whatsoever.
24' Round 52" (44"/12450gal) Deep Namco Morada - ClearWater 22" Sand Filter - 1.5HP (SPL) Speck Pump - Taylor K-2006C Test Kit