OOPS! I missed that.
PLEASE don't do that. Trichlor will add 6ppm CYA for every 10ppm FC. Your CYA is already in the unknown / unmanageable area, we don't want to add more!
You didn't give us a Calcium Hardness number (important for a plaster pool), If it's low, you can chlorinate with Calcium Hypochlorite, if it's not, Bleach or Liquid Chlorine (same thing, different concentrations) is your only practical alternative (Litium Hypochlorite is an alternative but is very expensive).
How did you come by the numbers you gave us?
We really need to get a range for your CYA before we can figure out the FC level and dosage to super-shock your pool (and if that's really what you want to do).
Some wall marts carry the HTH 6-way test kit (Check Availability) It is compatible with the Taylor K-2006 (it's made by Taylor) and includes a CYA test. It also includes an OTO based chlorine test which can give us gross estimates of the very high chlorine levels you'll need to kill the mustard algae. Let us know if you can pick one up, if not, then do get a cheap OTO / Phenol Red kit - you'll need it. Also, Order the Taylor K-2006.
I had my water tested at Leslies. their analysis said 100 PPM CYA. I can get it down a bit over time by draining and filter backflushing. My calcium hardness is 200 PPM. I just did a complete water change this winter as my TDS had hit 700.
What i have is a pail of 99% pure triclor powder, it has no CYA added. I have a friend in the pool business, so I can get my chemicals direct from SCP at wholesale. So what I need to know is how to convert this powder to PPM in the pool water
Trichlor is stabilized chlorine and has CYA in it when it's pure. Dichlor is also stabilized and yields 9ppm CYA for every 10ppm FC.
Leslie's CYA test also is unlikely to be able to tell 100ppm CYA from 200ppm CYA.
If your water's new, How did it get so much CYA in it?
How does your water look? That chlorine reading of 5ppm means it could be 5 or higher but there is no way to know. You really need to order a Taylor K-2006 or 2006C as it is the only type of kit that can measure chlorine higher than 5. For now, you can use a dilution method to force your kit to read higher. It does lose accuracy with dilution, but it is better than nothing.
Testing Without a Good Kit
albacore45,
Sorry I didn't get back to you yesterday. Those numbers look alot different. Watermom is right, you really need a K-2006. You'll also need alot of R-0871 to monitor your yellow algae battle, you may want to consider buying an extra 2oz bottle of R-0871 should you choose to buy the K-2006 instead of the K-2006C.
The plan for killing Mustard Algae is: raise the FC level to the +Shock+ level in Ben's Best Guess Chart for your CYA level and keep it there for an extended period of time. Brush the pool daily - including everywhere the algae might hide (inside the light niche, behind, around, and under ladders and ladder feet). Also make sure anything that's touched the algae (brushes, nets, etc.) gets a nice long soak in the high chlorine pool.
Please do not use the trichlor powder you have to reach these chlorine levels, it will add CYA and make it harder to kill the algae.
Calcium Hypochlorite may be a good choice for you as you could also stand to raise your Calcium Hardness some. Cal-hypo comes in different strengths so read the labels carefully. 10lbs of 53% cal-hypo should raise your FC by 30ppm and raise your Calcium Hardness by 21.