Bromine Chemistry Question

[CarlD]

Let me try to simplify the T/A lowering procedure. We've batted this around for at least a half-dozen years until Chem_Geek untangled it so we all understood.
1) T/A reading depends on the pH reading. So at 7.0 you'll get a lower T/A than at 7.8, when actually they are linked. If you raise pH with Borax or Soda Ash, T/A goes right back up.
2) So you lower pH to, say, 7.0.
3) Aeration RAISES pH! The fancy chemistry has something to do with breaking down carbonic acid in the water but the end result is aeration raises pH but does NOT raise T/A with it, unlike other ways to raise pH.
4) You then lower the pH again, pulling down T/A with it, and aerate to raise pH without raising T/A again.

In other words, you are ratcheting the T/A down. The aeration doesn't lower T/A (though if you keep pH constant at 7.0-7.2 it will SEEM that way). Lowering pH lowers T/A and aeration allows pH to rise without raising T/A.

On another note, you keep wasting your chlorine reagents doing the 25ml test. Only do the 10ml test. We/you don't need to know that FC is 7.2 or 7.4, 7.0 or 7.5 is close enough. Same for CC.

[FormerBromineUser]

So if I understand you, my lowering pH with MA to 7, raising by aeration to 7.6, lowering by MA to 7, raising by aeration to 7.6, etc., actually might have done something other than waste time and MA. I don't feel so stupid, if so. I think though that Ben is saying that I need to KEEP my pH low for an extended period and not to aerate with the goal of raising pH all the way back up to 7.6 or higher before adding more MA. I will follow his instructions to the letter as my ultimate goal is to have a great pool with no unneccesary chemicals, to keep money in my pocket and not the pool store's, and to become "FormerBromineUser"!!!