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  1. #1
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    Default Re: Bromine Chemisty Question

    Do #1 & #2.

    Go ahead and use the CuLator units -- it won't hurt them to do so, as long as they don't get goo-ey. Plus they act very slowly, so the more they are in the pool, the better.

    Let's stick with that for the next week at least. Don't over-test CYA; you'll run out of reagent. Let me know if you see any staining occurring.

    I'll try to get your pics posted tomorrow.

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    Default Re: Bromine Chemisty Question

    Perfectly understood, thanks.
    If no staining, talk to you next week.
    Happy Memorial Day! No swimming for us with no heater. Boohoo.
    26K gal 20x40 rectangular IG vinyl pool; Apr 2014: New pump, liner, auto-cover, & water; Pentair Whisperflo 1HP pump; Pentair Trition sand filter; Cover/Star CS-500 auto cover; Taylor K-2006C; OTO

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    Default Re: Bromine Chemisty Question

    Made it through the week! I hope you had a great holiday weekend celebrating our veterans and being with family. I went to Virginia to pick up my son from college and on our way home we visited several historical sites including the Flight 93 Memorial. 41 heroes died that day in PA; 40 adults and one yet-to-be-born person. Anyway....

    Currently my numbers are:
    FC: 2.0 (it was tested while I was gone and varied from 1.5 to 2.5 only)
    CC: <0.5
    pH: 7.4
    TA: 100
    CH: 60 (did this twice so I am sure, hmmmm)
    CYA: did not test. My best guess is 20-25. I only added 2-1/2C dichlor all week so I am saving reagents.
    STAINING: Most of the week I had an orange mottling on the steps but just slightly darker than right after the ascorbic acid scrub. However, yesterday, in 75 degree water temps, the boys dove in! When their waves hit the steps, I could clearly see an orange water line on the stairs as the waves fell below it (white above, solid light-orange below). This staining is not visible otherwise. I just installed the 1.5 ppm Spring Opener CuLator packs tonight in both skimmers; I only received them today and there were only two in my order????

    What do you suggest I do next?

    BTW, I have on hand:
    25+ lbs. granular dichlor (99% Sam's Club)
    11 lbs. cal-hypo (68% In-The-Swim)
    3 G 12.5% bleach
    8 121oz. 8.25% bleach
    5 lbs. sodium carbonate
    2 lbs. sodium bicarbonate
    76 oz. (1 box) borax
    2 G 31.45% muriatic acid
    4 qts. polyquat (Kem-Tek 60% algaecide)
    1 qt. 60% HEDP (Jack's Magic Pink Stuff)
    25 LaMotte borate test-strips
    DE 20+ lbs.
    2 skimmer socks
    Last edited by FormerBromineUser; 05-28-2014 at 01:47 AM.
    26K gal 20x40 rectangular IG vinyl pool; Apr 2014: New pump, liner, auto-cover, & water; Pentair Whisperflo 1HP pump; Pentair Trition sand filter; Cover/Star CS-500 auto cover; Taylor K-2006C; OTO

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    Default Re: Bromine Chemisty Question

    .
    Hey. Thank you again for all your help getting my CHLORINE pool up and running!!!

    My pool is doing well. I did a little more ascorbic acid scrubbing on the stairs and they look good. My CYA is not yet at 30 but it's closer than my post last week. I have hardly had to add any dichlor so it's a slow-go to raise CYA...with a broken heater it's too cold to swim much.)

    I still want to add borates. Since I'm not sure when you were going to recommend that, I went ahead and did a metals bucket test. (I only did pool water at this point as I only wanted to buy one bucket. I will test my fill water after I am done with the pool water. I haven't had to use the hose to fill.)

    Anyway, here are my results:

    6.) Wait 15 minutes, and note any color change. None

    10.) After 24 hours, inspect. Note clarity, color and sediment, if any visible Still clear, no color, no sediment

    11.) After 24 *more* hours, inspect. Note clarity, color and sediment, if any visible Still clear, no color, no sediment. I even put my arm in there and swiped the bottom of the bucket and it is squeaky clean.

    12.) Test both buckets for chlorine levels with OTO. You should not get a 'normal' reading, but report resultant color. Color with OTO was weird. It was kind of clear in the background with orange-red specks floating in it. I shook it vigorously and the background did turn orange-ish but the specks never disappeared. I think the background would have returned to clear after shaking but the fumes started to bother me so I pitched the sample.

    I am now waiting the additional three days as per: 14.) Recover the buckets, and wait 3 days, and check again.
    26K gal 20x40 rectangular IG vinyl pool; Apr 2014: New pump, liner, auto-cover, & water; Pentair Whisperflo 1HP pump; Pentair Trition sand filter; Cover/Star CS-500 auto cover; Taylor K-2006C; OTO

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    Default Re: Bromine Chemisty Question

    Sounds like your metal free!

    You do understand that borates make your pool more resistant to algae, but don't guarantee and algae free pool?

    Assuming that you do, for a 30k gallon pool, you'll need about 23 boxes of borax (~$4 each) and 8 gallons of 31% muriatic acid (~$8 each), so the total cost would be $160. It is a permanent addition, except for leaks, backwashing and splashout.

  6. #6
    chem geek is offline PF Supporter Whibble Konker chem geek 4 stars chem geek 4 stars chem geek 4 stars chem geek 4 stars
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    Default Re: Bromine Chemisty Question

    Or you could use 72 pounds of boric acid. At DudaDiesel this is $65 for 55 pounds plus $45 for 25 pounds plus shipping for the 55 pounds so $110 plus shipping (or 3 25 pounds would be $135 with free shipping). AAA Chemical has $60 for 50 pounds so $120 for 100 pounds plus shipping. The Chemistry Store has $89.10 for 55 pounds and $27.75 for 15 pounds so that's $117 for 70 pounds plus shipping.

    Personally, I find using boric acid to be a lot easier since it's just one chemical to add. It didn't used to be as inexpensive as Borax plus acid, but these days it's a lot closer and I think a lot more convenient. Be sure to get granular and not powdered -- the powdered version tends to sit on top of the pool. The granular still dissolves very quickly and is gone with some light brushing. The effect on pH only drops it from 7.5 to around 7.2 when you add 50 ppm borates (the quantities above).
    15.5'x32' rectangle 16K gal IG concrete pool; 12.5% chlorinating liquid by hand; Jandy CL340 cartridge filter; Pentair Intelliflo VF pump; 8hrs; Taylor K-2006 and TFTestkits TF-100; utility water; summer: automatic; winter: automatic; ; PF:7.5

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    Default Re: Bromine Chemisty Question

    .
    Great news!!!!

    Thank you so much for all the help you have given me and others here on the forum. You are truly amazingly generous people to donate so much of your time and energy to us all. In my case: special, special thanks to Ben! Your patience is astounding. After reading SO MANY posts where people look for advice and then don't follow it, (even lie about following it), I know I would either give up or be a sarcastic SOB. Kudos, forum folk!!!

    Yes, I know borates are not a solution to algae. I am looking for water comfort. My grumpy husband, after swimming 3 times this year, complains about his hair and skin after being in the pool. Happy husband = happy life???? Ha!!! I will use the "slow" plan for adding borates -just in case. BTW, our Menard's has 31.45% MA at $1.99/gal.
    26K gal 20x40 rectangular IG vinyl pool; Apr 2014: New pump, liner, auto-cover, & water; Pentair Whisperflo 1HP pump; Pentair Trition sand filter; Cover/Star CS-500 auto cover; Taylor K-2006C; OTO

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