Bromine Chemistry Question

[FormerBromineUser]

Hey.

I have been "patiently" waiting until it looked like things had settled down after the July 4th rush and it looks like they have.

Here's my news: My CYA finally hit around 42 (my son and I are familiar with logarithmic scales so it's our best guess). I have been using LC to sanitize. My pH is incredibly stable (thanks for the TA adjustment, Ben!). I check FC, CC, and pH daily and I seem to lose 1.0-1.5 ppm FC each day. I'm not exact with my LC dosages as I am trying to learn how to judge quantities myself and NOT use a calculator. :-) Twice I have had CC between 0.1 and 0.5 but that was after little kids were in the pool....

Here are my numbers:
FC: aim for 4.2 (10% of CYA)
CC: 0
pH: 7.4
TA: 80
CYA: 42 (>40)
CH: 60
Borate: 60 .... I THINK it's 60 but I can't read those LaMotte strips very well
Metals: 0 (according to bucket test) I have only added rain water so far

So.... Is there anything else I should be doing with my new water? I still have concerns about Leslie's telling me I had >1000ppb phosphates. If you think I am saavy enough, I will be happy to be an additional test case for the phosphate project. I know the axiom is "if it ain't broke..." but it seems like there's a good argument for preventative medicine too.

Oh, and my pool is really 26K, not 30K, but I can't change my signature.

Products on hand: plenty of 12.5% LC, 10.5 lbs 68% cal-hypo, 3.25Q 60% polyquat, 2 bx borax, 2.5G MA

[Watermom]

I'll let Ben tell you if he wants you to do something with his phosphate project. All of your numbers look pretty good.

Regarding your signature, if you click on the link in my signature, you'll be able to edit it to show the correct volume.

[FormerBromineUser]

Thanks especially for taking a look at my numbers, Watermom! I tried to use YOUR signature also, and it still won't let me edit. I get the error message:
Your signature contains too many lines and must be shortened. You may only have up to 3 line(s). Long text may have been implicitly wrapped, causing it to be counted as multiple lines.

[Watermom]

Well, shorten it a bit. It would be better if it was shorter anyways --- less to read. When we glance at signatures, it helps if it is concise and only the most necessary info in there.

OR, are you saying you can't do any editing at all --- not even to delete part of it?

[PoolDoc]

It looks like everything is OK. Unless you want to pursue using a PO4 remover now, I don't see a reason to do so.

But . . . it looks like I'm going to be putting together a 'winterizing kit' containing PO4 remover + a clarifier, with the intention of selling it to up to 100 in-ground pool owners who want to avoid spring-time slime. I hope to make an announcement about this by mid-August.

[JimK]

It looks like everything is OK. Unless you want to pursue using a PO4 remover now, I don't see a reason to do so.

But . . . it looks like I'm going to be putting together a 'winterizing kit' containing PO4 remover + a clarifier, with the intention of selling it to up to 100 in-ground pool owners who want to avoid spring-time slime. I hope to make an announcement about this by mid-August.

Interesting.....up until last winter I used a kit that contained a PO4 remover (it's designed for pools with mesh winter covers). Last winter I didn't use the PO4 remover based on what I'd been reading here about phosphates not being an issue when when properly chlorinated. Maybe I'll go back to using a PO4 remover at winter closing?

[PoolDoc]

Again, using a PO4 remover ONLY has value if you take the PO4 level down to a measured 125 ppb (0.125 ppm) level OR LESS. Simply lowering the PO4 from 2,000 ppb to 500 ppb is probably useless. Also low PO4 levels only make it EASIER to kill resistant algae; low PO4 does not kill algae by itself.

If you have been successfully maintaining a clear pool on opening without messing with a PO4 remover, using one probably serves no purpose.