Thank you! My algae is almost gone!

[PoolDoc]

Kelemvor is correct.

Unfortunately, it's very common for above ground pools to remain cloudy for a LONG time after the algae is gone. It's most common with large, over-sized, pumps (like your 2 HP) coupled with undersized sand filters.

The problem is made worse by the common response of adding repeated doses of clarifier: one dose may help, but won't hurt. Two can cause problems, and more than two tend to work in reverse, making it much harder to filter the remaining algae particles.

If you want to dig into the mechanics of improving your filter system, we can go there. But no matter what you do, there's a fair chance you'll finish the year with a cloudy pool.

One tip: when you CLOSE the pool, if you cover with a solid cover, the algae will settle over the winter. When you open, you'll want to IMMEDIATELY raise chlorine levels with bleach BEFORE turning the pump on. When you turn the pump on, set the filter to "WASTE" and vacuum the settled algae out. Otherwise, you may stir it all up, and immediately be back where you are now.

One possibility: the algae *might* settle now, if you turn the pump off for 24 - 48 hours. BUT, you MUST have the chlorine high, before you turn the pump off, and then MAINTAIN the chlorine levels with continued doses of bleach.

BUT . . . there's a complication. You added the info that you have an "AquaSmarte Mineral System". That's one incarnation of King Technologies assorted products that add copper, silver or both to your water. We *strongly* recommend against such system. The risk for you now, is that if there is copper in the water, adding the chlorine you need can cause black stains to appear. (Blue-green stains might also occur, but don't show up on vinyl like they do in concrete pools). I would STRONGLY recommend that you remove or empty all the AquaSmarte cartridges.

And, I have to warn you, that following the advice we've given you may result in stains, if there's still copper present.

Good luck.

[auntphibian]

That was going to be my next question..about the Aqua Smarte System. I asked the pool store about this right after I bought the house and they said they don't work. I had them check their system to see if the last owner bought the filters and other items for the AquaSmarte and they have not, but they do have it set to 8-10. I was wondering if I can just turn it off, or do I need to do something specific, since it is not properly being used and probably never has been. I also found out they have not changed the sand in more than a year.

Yes, I would like some more info on how to clear the cloudy water, ie the sand filter. Any help or knowledge will be helpful in deciding what my next move is.

I SO appreciate this forum! I bought this house because of the pool as I am a low income disabled person and water therapy is the best thing for me. I would just like to see the bottom of the pool!

[PoolDoc]

Sand doesn't normally need to be changed -- unless you've been using Baquacil or another PHMB based sanitizer. But on AG pools with big pumps and small filters it's common to lose some sand every time the filter is backwashed, and this sand needs to be replaced. You can test the filter by buying a bag of DE filter powder, and adding a quart or so to your skimmer while the pump is running. If the DE powder shoots back into the pool, your filter needs work. If not, it will help the filter remove the fine algae particles, BUT your filter will stop up quickly. (This is not a bad thing -- since you're removing particles that otherwise would tend to go through the sand!). Repeated use of DE can remove algae particles that otherwise would linger for weeks.

Without pictures, I can't tell you what it would take to remove the Aqua Smarte, but it would be best if you do so.

If you trust your pool store somewhat, it might be best to hire them to
1. remove the AquaSmarte completely
2. top off your filter with sand
3. install a ball valve on the DISCHARGE side of your pump, between the pump and filter, allowing your to throttle your pump back. Doing so will allow you to filter fine particles that otherwise are forced through the sand by the oversized pump. It will also allow you to backwash at a high enough rate to clean the filter, but not so high you constantly lose sand.

[auntphibian]

Okay, to my disbelief the Taylor Kit arrived today. So, I tried my hand at the chemistry, not sure how I did. Here's what I got:
Temp of water: 86
TA - 130
pH - 7.4
CH - 100
CYA - this is where I had a problem. It was "off the charts". It was below the 100 mark. It was level with the CYA imprint. Not sure what this means, but something is not right.
The Chlorine was the other thing I wasn't sure of. The kit talks about .2ppm and .5ppm, so I tested at .5ppm (since I have no idea what I'm doing). According to what I did the calculation is
3 drops x .5ppm for Free Chlorine = 1.5 did I do this right?
and
2 drops x .5 ppm for CC - .5 Would this be right or did I totally screw something up?
With the OTO test kit my chlorine was in the 2.4 range.

So, not being a professional at this, by any means, it seems the main issue is high alkalinity, right? So, they give options of putting air back into the water to lower this and I'm sure there is a chemical.

Please tell me if I missed anything and what your recommendations would be to get this water clear! Thank you so much for all your help already!

[PoolDoc]

Sorry it's taken me so long to reply. I was been running a fever with a fairly bad headache and severe fatigue and joint pains from Saturday till Thursday AM early . . . and pretty mentally destroyed as well. Turns out I probably either have an acute Lymes infection, or West Nile. Since antibiotics appear to be helping, it's probably Lymes.

I'm still tired, but hopefully my IQ is back into the 3 digit range!

(Did you know that you could be bitten by a nymph-stage deer tick -- about this size => . <= when fully engorged, and ready to drop off -- and never even notice the bite, but still be infected? Yep!)

Anyhow, back to your CYA level.

=> When you mix R0013 to your pool water and the sample remains CLEAR, you have ZERO or very low CYA
=> When you mix R0013 to your pool water and the sample becomes so cloudy that the black dot is obscured BEFORE you reach the 100, your CYA level is MORE than 100 ppm.

So . . . mix 1/2 cup of POOL water with 1 cup of TAP water. Use that mixture for your CYA test, and re-run the test. Multiple the result by THREE (3), and that will be your approximate CYA level.

AND . . . do not worry about your alkalinity level -- it's not a problem on a vinyl pool with a CH=100

[nefretrameses]

Auntphibian,

The chlorine test (and the tests for TA & CH) offer 2 options - a 10ml sample or a 25ml sample. The marks are on the side of the test vial. If you use a 10ml sample, each drop = 0.5 ppm for FC. If you use the 25ml sample, each drop = 0.2ppm for FC. (10ppm and 25ppm respectively for TA & CH) The 25ml sample will give you a little more accurate reading, but the 10ml sample is probably good enough for routine testing.

If you used a 10ml sample for your test then your calculation for FC is correct (3 x 0.5 = 1.5) but your CC result would be 2 x 0.5 = 1.0.
When you do the test, you should keep adding drops until the color is COMPLETELY clear - not even a hint of pink - or you are not done (have not reached the endpoint of the test). Check out the demo videos on the Taylor website.

You do not need 2 scoops of powder for either the 10ml or 25ml sample - one is enough.

The CYA test takes a little getting used to. After you do the test, you can pour the solution back into the mixing jar and then repeat the test. Lighting is important here. Check out the Taylor demo video.

If your CYA is over 100 and not zero, you will need to add chlorine. Check out the best guess chart under PoolDoc's signature for you CYA level.

Doc, hope you feel better soon.

[dansdad]

Sorry to even mention this Ben with your Lymes and all ( hope you're much better soon). I have the same prob as the OP but I was away and the weather was cool but all of a sudden weather turned from cool to mega hot in 2 days and you guessed it.......GREEN... I brushed for 2 hours and got most of it, now I have a gallon of liquid conditioner I'm going to put in tonight along with 2 gallons of 12% chlorine. Does that seem like an idea? Next year it will be different. I wont give it a chance. Just wanted your input. Please take care of yourself!!!!!! Dave Gale

[PoolDoc]

Do *NOT* add conditioner. At summer's end, odds are your CYA (conditioner, stabilizer) is already too HIGH.

Instead. add your 2 gallons of 12% bleach, and then go to Walmart (or other big box) and purchase 15 gallons of PLAIN 8.25% store brand bleach. The store bleach is much more likely to be full 8.25%, than the pool bleach is to be 12%. We can check that, later.

Begin adding 3 gallons of 8.25% bleach *late* each evening. Continue dosing like this for 3 days after no visible algae remains.

Use your K2006 to accurately test your CYA level; report that, along with a full set of other results, here.

-- I'll probably spin this off into it's on separate thread after your next post --

[JimK]

Sorry it's taken me so long to reply. I was been running a fever with a fairly bad headache and severe fatigue and joint pains from Saturday till Thursday AM early . . . and pretty mentally destroyed as well. Turns out I probably either have an acute Lymes infection, or West Nile. Since antibiotics appear to be helping, it's probably Lymes.

I'm still tired, but hopefully my IQ is back into the 3 digit range!

(Did you know that you could be bitten by a nymph-stage deer tick -- about this size => . <= when fully engorged, and ready to drop off -- and never even notice the bite, but still be infected? Yep!)

Anyhow, back to your CYA level.

=> When you mix R0013 to your pool water and the sample remains CLEAR, you have ZERO or very low CYA
=> When you mix R0013 to your pool water and the sample becomes so cloudy that the black dot is obscured BEFORE you reach the 100, your CYA level is MORE than 100 ppm.

So . . . mix 1/2 cup of POOL water with 1 cup of TAP water. Use that mixture for your CYA test, and re-run the test. Multiple the result by THREE (3), and that will be your approximate CYA level.

AND . . . do not worry about your alkalinity level -- it's not a problem on a vinyl pool with a CH=100

Yikes!

Hope your better soon!

[auntphibian]

Thank you. I will do just that. Funny, my sister had an issue with her scalp that turned into a burning she could not stand and went to the ER. This was 2 months ago. We found out she was symptomatic for Lyme Disease, just like you! She started on antibiotics and got better. Thing is, if they test you for Lyme Disease in the early stages it will not show up in the test, you have to go by the symptoms and whether or not the antibiotics are working. Weird that you and my sister both got Lyme Disease in a short period of time. Where are you? She's in Northern Florida. She's been concerned about visiting my new place, because there are ticks, she never thought she would have a problem with something she never saw. So, yes, I am quite familiar with the tick situation! I'm glad you are feeling better.

An update: I can see much deeper into the pool than every before! I still cannot see the bottom, but it's clearer. I'll check the CYA tomorrow and see what happens. Thank you for the info! Get better!