New Thread with my results of first test

[PoolDoc]

Looks good.

The CC=0.4 may be a testing error, or it may mean you need to keep the chlorine a bit higher for the next few days.

TA=70 is a bit low, if you have a concrete pool, but fine otherwise.

[Tom.B]

Correction: Cal Hard is 370

I went back and retested :-)

I will also do a Phosphate test tomorrow.

I will start the search for a bleach supplier ASAP. I got nuttin' at the house right now.

[PoolDoc]

Unless you have a Taylor phosphate kit (preferred) or the Aqua-Chek . . . don't bother. The other kits I checked aren't accurate enough to be useful, unless your goal is simply to sell phosphate remover!

Taylor Technologies K-1106 Phosphate test kit
Hach Company 562227 Phosphate Test Kit (Aqua-Check)

[Tom.B]

Unless you have a Taylor phosphate kit (preferred) or the Aqua-Chek . . . don't bother. [/URL][/B][/INDENT]

Of COURSE I do... Would I disappoint you?

QQ-Can I still use pool store chlorine until I find a good source for bleach? At this stage, it's just more convenient.

[PoolDoc]

QQ-Can I still use pool store chlorine until I find a good source for bleach? At this stage, it's just more convenient.

Pool store bleach, purchased this year, should be fine -- heat cooks of bleach, but it hasn't gotten hot, yet. Still, Walmart bleach is likely to be fresher.

Pool store tablets (trichlor) may or may not be OK -- read the label. Borates are a way to dilute the tablets so the store can make more $$, but they won't cause any pool problems at all. Copper is altogether different -- do not buy any chlorine with copper listed.

Pool store dichlor should be avoided -- almost all of it is now badly diluted, and some of the chemicals used WILL cause problems.