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Thread: Open Green and Cloudy & No CYA

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    Default Re: Open Green and Cloudy & No CYA

    ...and my reagent for testing FC just ran out. I will be using my Taylor test that only measures up to 5ppm. The reagent will get here in 3-5 days. Why they don't make a larger volume bottle of product that fits in the test kits I will never know. Now my new 2oz bottle will not fit in my handy dandy Taylor Test Kit case.

    I understand that I can still test the higher levels of FC using the smaller test by diluting the sample and then using some multiplication. So fill the tester 1/2 full, then fill the other half with distilled water. Take the reading and then multiply the results of the test by 2? I understand that the results will not be as accurate, but I need some idea since I want to maintain 6 ppm and over based on my CYA. Is it ok to limp through using this until the good stuff shows up?

    I totally have this pool on the ropes. I can smell clear water (and I don't think it is the odor from combined chlorine).
    18k gal AG 27' with 5-1/2' deep end, Hayward XStream 1500 Cartridge filter; Hayward 1.5 hp Power Flo matrix pump; K-2006C kit; 2 bottom drains. PF=6.7

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    Default Re: Open Green and Cloudy & No CYA

    Yes, you can dilute the sample and get buy for a few days while you wait on you refills. Another option is to use an OTO kit (no dilution necessary) and the color chart here to help you read 'off the scale' colors. http://pool9.net/oto-chart/

    As far as the fitting the bottles in the case issue, you can always just buy larger bottles and just refill your smaller ones. I'm pretty sure that 4-oz bottles are sold and maybe some other sizes as well. I'm not sure what all is available size-wise on Amazon, but one place we have used before is www.spspools-spas.com.

    Something you can do if you are running out of your R-0871 to help stretch it out a little longer is to drop the water sample size to 5ml, and then each drop will be 1 ppm, instead of 0.5 ppm.

  3. #3
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    Default Re: Open Green and Cloudy & No CYA

    Update:
    I have been maintaining the FC at shock level based on my CYA. I have been adding Dichlor and keeping track of how many lbs. For me 1 lb = 3 CYA. CYA should be around 38. My goal is to get it to 50-60. Once at 50-60 I will stop adding Dichlor and only use bleach. The borax is offsetting the Dichlor's tendency to lower my Ph.



    When the pool finally was clear enough to see the bottom I found a pile of leaves. This was not there in the fall and I can only assume they blew under the cover this winter? Anyway, I cleared them out so hopefully I will not have the drop in Ph that I had last week.

    Opened the pool Sunday. This was the fastest open since I have owned it. There are still some clarity issues, but nothing some vacuuming can't clear up. Last year you could see the bottom drain in the deep end from the kitchen window. Best pool year ever!

    Thanks for your help. I finally feel like I am in control of the pool instead of it controlling me.
    18k gal AG 27' with 5-1/2' deep end, Hayward XStream 1500 Cartridge filter; Hayward 1.5 hp Power Flo matrix pump; K-2006C kit; 2 bottom drains. PF=6.7

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    Default Re: Open Green and Cloudy & No CYA

    I'm glad we were able to help!

  5. #5
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    Default Re: Open Green and Cloudy & No CYA

    We are having a great summer with the pool. It looks great and is crystal sparkly clear.

    Ph is up to 7.8. I have some muratic acid but not sure what volume to start adding. Do I start by the cup or do I add by the liter?

    Thanks!
    18k gal AG 27' with 5-1/2' deep end, Hayward XStream 1500 Cartridge filter; Hayward 1.5 hp Power Flo matrix pump; K-2006C kit; 2 bottom drains. PF=6.7

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    Default Re: Open Green and Cloudy & No CYA

    You don't want to actually measure muriatic acid as it is too likely to splash on you. Just estimate your dose. I'd probably do about a quart and then after awhile, retest and redose if needed. Please read the info at the following link about using it safely.
    http://pool9.net/ma/

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