. . . membership updated.
There are several options, some of which can be combined.
1. HiC2 pool, as mentioned. (requires a K2006 kit)
2. Pool cover, either solid or mesh. (important if thunderstorms, etc are likely to fill your pool with debris)
3. Borates > 60 ppm will reduce your pool's susceptibility to algae, and improve the 'aesthetics' somewhat. (requires Lamotte borate strips)
4. Phosphates < 100 ppb (0.1 ppm) will significantly reduce your pool's susceptibility to algae, including mustard algae.
5. Use a SWCG (salt water chlorine generator). (requires AquaCheck salt test strips, or the Taylor salt kit)
6. Add 4 -6 ppm of polyquat algaecide to the pool on the day before you leave.
All of the options above can be combined. See http://pool9.net/tk/ for testkit info.
7. Maintain copper level > 0.4 ppm. Effective against most forms of algae, but causes stains and green hair. Not supported here. MUST keep chlorine low.
CLOROX Pool Phosphate Remover (1 bottle needed)
Borax at Walmart (4 boxes needed). Muriatic acid at Lowes (1 gallon 31% needed). read http://pool9.net/muriatic/ BEFORE using muriatic acid.
CLOROX Pool Super Concentrated Algaecide (1 bottle needed)
[ WRONG: Turns out the Clorox phosphate remover is a seriously bad deal. A quart of the Kem-Tek predecessor product was labeled as removing 2 ppm PO4 from 10K gallons; the Clorox product is virtually the same price, but only removes 0.75 ppm from 10K gallons.
That means the Clorox product is actually 267% more expensive!]
. . . membership updated.

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