Thanks Watermom,
I'm on my way out to get a drop kit right now, I guess I want one that can give me all the readings I'll need? I have not really added anything to the pool yet. Just lots of brushing, vacuming and running the filter.
Alx
Thanks Watermom,
I'm on my way out to get a drop kit right now, I guess I want one that can give me all the readings I'll need? I have not really added anything to the pool yet. Just lots of brushing, vacuming and running the filter.
Alx
Alex,
Welcome to the forum and the gentle art of using a SWCG.
Once you have posted some test results as Watermom mentioned, we can help you "whip it into shape".
I created a generic post on SWCG operations in the thread below, to help you understand what happens in a salt pool.
http://www.poolforum.com/pf2/showthread.php?t=1226
There is also a bleach calculator by mwsmith2 that can help adding the correct amount of chemicals.
http://home.earthlink.net/~mwsmith70...achCalc262.exe
Hopefully this will help to get you started.
Pat
20,000 Gallon IG Diamond Brite pool, 1.5 HP Sta-Rite pump, Hayward Microclear DE3600 filter, Favco solar panels, Poolpilot DIG-220 with SC-48 cell.
+ SWCG OPERATION thread here: http://www.poolforum.com/pf2/showthread.php?t=1226
+ SWCG Running Costs post here: http://www.poolforum.com/pf2/showthread.php?t=316
+ Effective Stabilizer addition post here: http://www.poolforum.com/pf2/showthread.php?p=6645
I went down to Leslie's and got a pretty good test kit, "The Complete Poolcare DPD Test Kit"
I also stopped at the Safeway and got the BBB's
Here's the readings:
FC=1.5PPM
TC=.5PPM
CC= -1PPM? NEGATIVE 1PPM? COULD THAT BE RIGHT?
BR=4PPM
PH= 8+ OFF THE CHART
ACID DEMAND TEST 4 DROPS TO GET TO 7.6, 5 DROPS TO 7.4
TA=150PPM
CH=250-300PPM
CYA=60-70PPM DID TEST 2 TIMES
SALT GENERATOR IS READING 3300PPM
THE POOL IS 32FT LONG AND 16FT WIDE, 8-9FT DEEP IN THE DEEP END,
3.5 IN THE SHALLOW END WITH ROUNDED SIDES, ALSO IT HAS A SPA.
It looks like I need lots of Bleach and Some Muratic acid, but how much?
Alx
First thing to do is get some muriatric acid in the pool and get the pH down to about 7.4-7.6. I would add the acid a pint at a time and restest until the pH is in range.
CYA is perfect for a SWG.
TA will probably be fine once the pH is corrected
CH is fine.
Salt level is fine.
What is the output percentage of the salt generator set to?
By the way if you need the manual for your SWG you can download it here
http://www.goldlinecontrols.com/media/092009i.pdf
Here is a link that shows how to clean the cell
http://www.goldlinecontrols.com/Maintenance.aspx
Also, don't use the superchlorinate function to shock, it's not as effective as using bleach to shock and will shorten your cell life!
Explain how you got your FC and TC reading because they make no sense.
Is your test kit DPD (reagent drops added to a color matching tube) or FAS-DPD (titration test...count the drops)?
I suspect that your TC is 1.5 ppm, your FC is .5 ppm and your CC is 1 ppm. that would make more sense.
Second order of buisiness,
Get as much junk as you can out of the pool and then shock the pool with about 7 gallons of Ultra Bleach. run the filter continuously. this should start clearing the water. It's hard to give exact dosing because you are not sure how many gallons the pool is but this should get you in the neighborhood ot 15 -20 ppm chlorine. It's a staring place!
Hope this helps.
Retired pool store and commercial pool maintenance guy.
Thanks Water Bear,
Well I got the $47 Leslie's kit that did all the things that I would need? According to what I have read here in the forum, FC, TC, CC. PH, TA, CH, and CYA. I will order the one from the site too, but I figure I needed this in a hurry. They have one for $84, but that did the other test that so far from what I read here is not needed , hopefully that is?
For the FC test it says fill small tube to the 9ml line and add 5 drops DPD Reagent #1, 5 drops DPD Reagent #2, then invert and match to color chart. then it say add 5 drops reagent #3 and invert and match to color chart again, and that's TC? which is lower? then it says to subtract FC (Which is the higher number?) from the TC (which is the lower number?), and that gives you CC, but a larger number from a smaller number always gives you a negative number correct? I guess you just suppose to ignore the negative?
Well I only got 4 gallons of bleach I'm dummy I'll get some more
I put it in and now I get reading's of:
FC=5ppm
TC=2ppm
CC= -3ppm which must just be 3ppm, So actually maybe I need like 8 gallons more to pump it up to 10-11 range?
My pool last year (Different house), Was also a Master Pools Pool, of a very similar size and I know that was 22,000 gallons? so this must be around that, I think it might even be a tad bigger?
I just did the Pool gallon estaimater in the link you gave me and came up with 23,175 gallons that's not counting the spa and a little bit if space around the spa that adds to the pool, so I guess 24,000 gallons would be about right, as I say a tad bigger than last years..
I will also get the Acid in the AM too.
Thanks You Guys I appreciate all the help. I should say knowledge. B:-)
This is like going to pool College... Can't wait to post some pic's of some clean water and the kids having fun. Then maybe I'll feel like I got my degree..![]()
The Salt Generator is set to 100%, which I was thinking is not good, But that's where the owner's had it set so I didn't touch it, yet! The Salt Generator is saying to inspect cell, So I suppose the cell needs cleaning? Guess you couldn't have giving me that link at a better time. Are you watching me
Alx
P.S.
I think I'll run down to Super Wallmart right now 12 midnight, and get the Bleach and maybe the Acid too if they have it. I guess I got pools water on the brain.
Last edited by [email protected]; 07-30-2006 at 02:55 AM.
In your pool, a half a gallon (2 quarts) will raise your cl a little more than 1ppm.
Ideally, FC and TC are equal which would mean that your CC reading is 0 which is what you want. FC + CC = TC. On your test kit, you should subtract TC - FC to find CC. TC should be the higher number or better yet, equal to FC. Thus, you should never get a negative number for CC.
I suggest you accelerate the acid dosage to 1 guart per dose. At a pint per dosage, you may well dose for 3 days before you bump it off that 8+ reading. I believe it would be helpful to get it into a measurable range more quickly......it may take a gallon or more to get you to 7.4.
TC will always be equal to or greater than FC!Originally Posted by [email protected]
Last edited by waterbear; 07-30-2006 at 12:49 PM.
Retired pool store and commercial pool maintenance guy.
I'm thinking that maybe my reagent #3, has gone bad then? Even though it's a brand new test kit when I got it home the r#3 had some crusty junk on the outside of the bottle? maybe it had a air leak and went bad? because every time I add R#3, the color gets lighter? I have got the ph down to 7.2-7.4,
Fc= 12-15 right now i guess I can't trust the Tc and CC reading right now? I'll try to run down to Leslie's see if they are still open and have them do a sample and see what they get for reading's then I'll tell them about my test kit?
Thank You again Guys and Gals...
Alx
Well sure enough I got a bad r#3 they replaced it, re-tested a water sample for me, they actually say that my cya is only 30ppm not 80, so Lillie's says that I need some conditioner? Is there any thing I can get that would be cheaper then the $41.00 Leslie's charges for conditioner? they say I need to use 3/4 of the barrel?
How much and what is Clarifier? The kid there said that if the pool doesn't clear in a couple of days to get some clarifier?
I was good I didn't get any of this stuff.. I wanted to check with the forum first?
Today this is what I did, tested water twice plus once at Leslie's it seems to be holding study for now.. It is still green and still not clear?
I vacuumed the pool manually again, cleaned my salt cell.
I really want to just jump in, but I'm afraid I'll get some weird illness and die?
POPP! I keep telling my self!
Alx