Bleach..How Much is TOO much

[Watermom]

Unless I missed it, I don't see where you have posted a complete set of current water testing numbers. That would be a good idea and may give us some other clues to be able to help.

[stma]

Thanks WMom...
My numbers are all over the place:

FC:20 (Did have a CC number a few days ago, but that is no longer)
PH:8.2 (was 7.0- 10 hours ago) ??
ALK:90

The most important # I won't have till later....the CYA....Although I have been adding a ton of water in the past 10 days or so (to make up for backwashing) and we have been rained on a bit here in Pennsylvania...honestly I cannot see the CYA # being high at all....When I closed down last year, CYA was running @45-50....Unless that number can INCREASE over the winter, I should be OK....

I'm baffled by the PH bounce as well....i thought perhaps the high CL number was causing the increase in PH ??? I don't know....

As always, Thanks Mom for your input...

Your turn :>

[Water_man]

[quote=stma;55491]
FC:20 (Did have a CC number a few days ago, but that is no longer)
PH:8.2 (was 7.0- 10 hours ago) ??
quote]

High FC level gives a false high pH indicator reading.
People use sodium thiosulphate to neutralize the FC but Taylor doesn't recommend it.
Do you have a pH reading of the water before the shocking? If you trust your previous pH reading of 7 I wouldn't worry about pH. The alternative is to check with a glass electrode or a pH meter. Every lab carries one. I'm checking getting one because I don't like comparing colors.

If your CYA is 50, you still need FC =20 to shock, as per chem geek's table and you haven't reached that level yet. I used Walmart's 6% bleach, and so do many others here.


Has your green color changed into blue yet?
Once it does, you know you're on the right track.

Finally, I haven't seen you reporting anything about brushing. You need to keep brushing all the surfaces so that algae sticking to the walls and bottom will be attacked by the chlorine.

[stma]

Ph "was" 7.1 prior to shocking and two hours later I was reading above 8....but if anything I assumed the "pink" in the PH Indicator would have been washed out instead of getting darker....??

Thorough brushing twice a day while shock levels are at their highest..I believe today is 11 days of green, cloudy water...

[aylad]

The bleach sold at Big Lots around here is only 3% strength--might want to call the number on the container and ask what you're using, because if it's the 3% stuff it'll take LOTS to clear up a green pool.

Janet

[stma]

Janet: Is it the Sno-eee brand (gallon size, white container, blue label)?? last year the bottle claimed 5.25%...this year has no marking as to percentage ??

[Water_man]

Ph "was" 7.1 prior to shocking and two hours later I was reading above 8....but if anything I assumed the "pink" in the PH Indicator would have been washed out instead of getting darker....??

Taylor's Water Chem boolket is clear about high pH false reading. See page 11 if you have it.

The common knowledge is that a high enough FC at the proper pH should kill the green algae. Here's an example which also gives you more tips.
Since the green is persistent, either you haven't reached the proper FC yet, or the pH for some unknown reason is too high, or you have an unusually persistent green monster.
The easiest way is first to make sure you took care of the FC and pH. If this doesn't work I can tell you about my experience with treating "Pink Algae" with Yellow Out.
You can read about it in this thread.

Last season I had pink algae on the walls. The water was clear. At that time I didn't know what I know now thanks to this forum, so when shocking to 5-10 ppm didn't work I was looking for something else. (Little did I know then that I should have tried 20 ppm first, with my CYA of 60.)
Coral Seas has a similar product that works with green algae. It's called Green to Clean.
Check it out here.
Yellow Out did the job, but there are a few drawbacks:

1. You have to start with pH 8. (This was the case with Yellow Out. I'm not sure about Green to Clean.) You are having now uncertainties about your pH. This issue has to be solved.
2. The process works by adding the Yellow Out or Green to Clean and active chlorine together. You already have a supposedly high FC.

If the traditional shocking method doesn't work for you
I'd call Fred as mentioned in my Pink Algae - Yellow Out post and ask for his advice. He doesn't just sell chemicals. He works in the field.
I hope the regular chlorine routine will finally work for you.

[mbar]

High chlorine levels give a false ph reading. That is why it is always recommended to get your ph under control before shocking the pool.

[stma]

As always, thank you guys (and gals) for your input...It is true concerning the PH indicator...prior to shocking last nite, my PH read 7.2...
As for the Yellow Out. Green to Clean items: I have no idea what I have as I cannot see past 20 inches into the pool...on Day 12 and absolutely nothing has changes as it pertains to the color and condition of the water....my filter "did" clog every few hours upon start-up, needing constant backwashing but that has since stopped and I'm running a constant 11psi..Unfortunately that is the ONLY positive change so far.......

I did find that my BigLots 5.25% bleach was actually only 3%...(and after thorough testing last nite, I think it's not even 2%)...AND my wife did admit she placed a gallon of 6% Ultra LEMON SCENTED in last week.....

I'll be keeping up with the shock level bleaching for now as this was always a cure-all in the past....after that, it's time for the sledge hammer !!!

[aylad]

Keep going--bleaching it will work when coupled with a good dose of POPP. (Pool owner patience and persistence). I highly recommend staying away from the Yellow-out and other treatments since they tend to cause other problems down the road.

Janet