Essikr,

I know how frustrating this whole process is. I battled the same 'Symptoms' 2 years ago and actually took last year off. This year the kids wouldn't let me so I had to 'Trust' the advice given on this site. My pool has been clean and clear all season so far. I would suggest you hit the search button and look for posts/threads that I have started - user-szampino.

Based on your recent post numbers, I would say that you may still be relying on someone else to test your water. I've got a 'Powder based' drop kit and have no idea how you can come up with a .2 CC, unless you put a .4 solution drop. I'm still new and learning so I'm sorry if I sound a bit synical and maybe you've got a different kit then me. I thought .5 was the lowest reading.

Not being an expert, but speaking as a survivor, I think you are going to have a very hard time keeping your 'Metals' under control when you have to maintain such a high Chlorine level due to your CYA level. Since you are not swimming now anyway, Reduce the CYA level by listening to Waterbear and do a partial refill, then DO NOT USE Stabalized Chlorine because you'll end up in the same place you are now, high CYA!

Because your FC is at 4 and your Chlorine level needs to be between 8-15, with a CYA of 110
=> 100 - 200 ppm . . . 8 ppm . . . . . 15 ppm . . .. 25 ppm, you risk an Algea bloom which will require 'Shocking' and then the staining mess begins all over again.

My reccomendation is as follows:

1. Make sure you've got a 'Great' test kit.
2. Do the partial refill and get your CYA as low as possible, ie, 1/2 refill should get you around CYA-55, I would like to see it lower but I think Mbar suggested 50's in an earlier post.
3. Get your Alk between 80 - 110, get your PH to about 7.0 (between the 6.8 and 7.2 marks.
4. Let your Chlorine drop to 1-3.
5. Add Sequestering agent (not in the sun)- the stuff I used, HTH Metal Control and Pool Magnet required about 3oz per 1000 gal. So at 23,000 gal you'll need about 69 oz of sequestering. Let it circulate in the water at least four - eight hours (ignore the stains)
6. Now focus your attention to the Water Chemistry and ignore the stains. Get your Chlorine level up to the Shock level for your CYA level. **Suggestion, NO - Stablized Chlorine and Do not add it through the Filter, only somewhere at the return.
7. Get the FC level to hold at shock overnight or if your like me make it 2 nights. *Don't worry about the staining we are going to tackle it next.
8. Now that we know the water is 'Sanitized', let tackle the Staining.
9. Let your FC drop to the correct 'Sanitize' level for your CYA.
10. Vaccum
11. Backwash (if you've got that kind of system), if not, Clean your Filter.
12. Let your FC drop between 1-3. Shut the filter, add a maintenace to full dose (depending on how bad the staining is) of Sequestering agent(not in the sun). 23oz to 69oz. Let the pool sit for about 1-2 hours.
13. Turn the Filter back on and let it circulate long enough to turn the water over.
14. Vaccum again if needed, then Backwash or Clean Filter.
15. 'Slowly, bring your FC (no Stablized Chlorine and as suggested, NOT through the filter only at the return) to the correct 'Sanitize' level.
16. Let your filter run continuously until the water begins to clear. Hopefully it will be clear by this point.

**If you follow my suggestions, I reccomend you start a new thread and post your results at each step so 'Tweaks' can be made along the way.

We are here with you so don't think you are fighting this fight alone!

Quote Originally Posted by essikr View Post
It took awhile but I got a copper test kit these are the numbers on the water today.

CC=.2 FC =4 PH=7.3 Alk= 110 Cal hd=150 CYA = 110 copper .8

The stain is back as bad as it was when I started.I appreciate the suggection offered. Since our summer abruptly ended,no one is swimming in the pool. I found another source for ascorbic acid at Essential wholesale and ordered 5 pounds. Is there any way to determine how much sequestor I need to use when I do another ascorbic treatment?