New Pool Owner Questions - 8 questions!! :)

[Watermom]

Have you tested your cya or does your test kit have that test in it? If not, let a pool store test it for you. Just don't let them load up your car with unnecessary stuff, though!

Stabilizer can be purchased separately. We normally all use granular CYA but we are hearing about a liquid conditioner which has the advantage of not taking a week to dissolve like the granules do. Of course, the liquid is apparently about twice as expensive though. (BTW -- stabilizer, conditioner, cyanuric or isocyanuric acid are the same product.) Before you add any stabilizer, post your cya reading.
If it turns out that you do need stabilizer and if your ph is still high, you might want to consider using the trichlor tabs for a bit. They will add chlorine, add cya, lower your pH since they are quite acidic. UNLESS they have copper in them like some of the tabs do. If they do, do NOT use them. You do NOT want copper in your pool. (Copper is what turns hair green, by the way. Not high chlorine like most people think.) Post your cya reading when you get it and at that time, we'll help you decide what is the best way for you to add cya to your pool based on the current readings at that time.

Regarding the algae ---- you got it! Sustained high chlorine, runnng the pump 24/7 while trying to clear the water and brushing the pool. Do those things consistently and it will rid your pool of the algae. But, you must sustain the high chlorine reading. Don't let it yo-yo up and down. Try and test at least twice (and 3x is better) per day and each time, add enough bleach to get back to shock level. Again, we need to know that cya reading to know what the appropriate shock level is for your pool.

Finally, thank you for your well wishes. At this time, we *think* I am in remission after battling this for over 2 years now. I go back to MD Anderson Cancer Center in July for another appointment with my oncologist there and more PET/CT scans. I am praying that those scans still show all clear. I appreciate your kind words, Kelly.


EDIT -- I see that while I was typing Janet also posted for you.

[kmmlangston]

I KNEW from reading posts on this forum that you all would just be incredible! Thank you so much. Our test kit does not test for stabilizer, so I think we will take a water sample to pinch a penny, as they seem a decent enough outfit and haven't tried to push a bunch of stuff on us. That will probably not be until tomorrow. We are just about to get inundated with rain for the second day in a row, and I can only imagine how that can mess with the pool balance.

Our pool is concrete with a plaster finish? Marcite? The previous home owner did not maintain her chemicals correctly, and apparently the water leached calcium out of the pool walls and there is discoloration on the pool bottom and areas where the surface is degrading and chipping off (the process of which is accelerating, too). We are planning to have it resurfaced by a company in town called Padgett Plastering (anyone from Gainesville, FL, familiar with them?!). They have been in business here for 30 years and seem to have a good reputation. We just want to make sure that once we spend the money to have it looking amazing, we have the water chemistry solid so that it doesn't happen again.

Janet, thank you for your information. So, if we add the acid to lower total alkilinity, do we then run the pump for longer than normal to aerate to bring the Ph back up?

After reading through posts here on the forum, I did come to the conclusion that copper in your pool is NOT a good thing, so we will be sure to avoid that.

I'm not sure the pool store is open tomorrow, but if it is, we will try to go by and have them test our water and I will post their results. Again, MANY THANKS! We will have an amazing pool in no time thanks to you all!!

Best regards,
Kelly

[aylad]

You might want to check with WalMart--they used to have a 6-way test for around $15 that tests for Cl, pH, Alk, CH, TA, and CYA. The ones around here don't carry it anymore but I've seen posts on the forum from other parts of the country where they do still carry it. While you're at the pool store, look for a good drop-based kit that tests for those things. The Taylor K-2006 is the kit we recommend, and they can be found online or at some pool stores. They can be kinda pricey (up to $100), but believe me, they will save you that much money hundreds of times over when it comes to maintaining a clean, clear pool. When you have your water tested, make sure you get a reading for CYA and Calcium hardness--they're going to be important in your pool and I didn't notice readings for either of them in your above post.

About the aeration in your pool, you don't necessarily have to run the pump longer than normal to raise the pH again, but it won't hurt. It's a gradual process. You can point your return eyeballs to the water surface in order to create rippling in the water, and that will help. A large group of kids splashing around in it will help even better! Just make sure that when you add the acid, you're adding it in front of a running return, and don't add enough to drop the pH lower than 7.0. Be patient and act slowly, with this and all chemicals, because it's much better to "sneak up" on a target than to overshoot it and have to correct problems later. If you overshoot and drop the pH too low, you can always raise it fairly quickly with Borax, but don't want to risk doing any further damage to your pool than the previous owners already did.

Janet

[dmarsh70]

Hi Kelly,

Welcome! you are correct in saying that this board is awesome. I've only been a pool owner (1st time) for about 1 whole week.

I read this board for several weeks while my pool was being built and I can tell you that doing so will pay benefits.

I've spoken to about 3 local pool owners in my neigborhood, and with all due-respect, they are CLUELESS to pool maintenance

They run to the local store every week with their test bottles and come back with directions on what to add etc etc.

I've been testing every day as my pool has brand new marcite/plaster so for the first several days I pumped 24/7 and brushed twice a day, and took readings two times a day.

Moving along - I have a two speed pump. I just last night set it on the timer as I am seeing my water balancing out and I am no longer seeing blue plaster dust when I brush.

I set it to "HI SPEED" from 4:30 - 10:30 PM (about when we'll be in it alot throughout the week) and then on LOW SPEED from 7AM - 12 PM. Now that's 11 hours a day of running, but if I get in the pool I turn it on High Speed. So I am probably running the pump a bit more than needed - but I am experimenting.

I'll keep taking readings... In about a week I may try to run it at Low Speed during timed sessions..

I can tell you that in my limited experience what counts is "SLOW AND STEADY". Don't be too anxious to listen to the Professional Pool People at the pool store..

Also - I see you live in Florida -me too. From what I understand, we one of the few states that the pool stores sell "liquid chlorine" AKA - BLEACH. It's very reasonably priced, and my local store gets a fresh 15K gallon supply every week - so you may want to check that out too.

Good Luck!!
David

[CarlD]

Welcome!

We are delighted that our forum is once again open to new members and all the activity and life they bring us!

Carl

[kmmlangston]

David,
What brand is your pump? As I mentioned, we are looking into purchasing a variable speed pump -- apparently, the electrical savings can be worth the initial investment. (and our utility is offering rebates).

We got what the weather station is saying 3/4 inches of rain yesterday - Saturday - (seemed like more), but both my husband and i think we need to drain the pool a bit. I am hoping to take a water sample to Pinch a penny and get them to analyze it and I will post the results.

Thanks, all, for the wonderful information and generosity in sharing your expertise!

Best,
Kelly

[kmmlangston]

So, I took my water sample to Pinch-a-Penny here in town and this is what they came up with. (they did not try to sell me anything!)

FC= 1 ppm (this is what I figured with my home test as well - I knew it was low)
pH= 7.8 (This is also what I figured at home)
Acid Demand= 2 (they are saying this is high)
Total Alkilinity = 130 (when I tested before I took the water to the store, I came up with
160 as opposed to 170 like I got yesterday)
Calcium Hardness = 500 (knew this would be high as we have been told that is why our
pool surface is degrading: the water is leaching Calcium from the marcite/plaster.)
Stabilizer = 100
Total Disolved solids = 1,900

We got a lot of rain yesterday and the day before and are in a pattern to see some significant thunderstorms daily for the next several days. We are thinking we will need to drain an inch off after todays rain. How does added rain water affect pool chemistry?

As I mentioned, we are having what we think is a small algae problem. When we brush the walls/bottom, a yellowish color billows then settles to the bottom. Obviously we need to up our chlorine (bleach). However, we don't want to dump a bunch of bleach in the pool as most likely, the pool will be drained and resurfaced starting this week. Do we increase the cholorine a bit, and keep brushing the algea/vacuuming in the interim?

A few more questions: David said he is brushing his new pool twice daily. Do we need to do that once our pool is resurfaced? And, will a regular bristle brush work or do we need to get one of those wire ones?

Also, any advice on auto vacuums? (see original post)
Any advice on switching from Chlorine to salt? (original post as well)

I noticed on another thread a guy with the sign on of BigTallDumbGuy. Maybe I'll change mine to Frizzy-haired Numbskull Gal! Thanks for all the feedback!
Kelly