White flakes in water

[steveinaz]

Here's some updated numbers (tests redone last night), I don't know where I got the first set--my apologies:

FC=typically 3-6ppm (currently 65% output on SWCG/8hrs filtering/day)
CC=0
pH=requires 3 cups of muriatic once a week to maintain 7.6
TA=180ppm
CH=710ppm
CYA=was 60ppm, more CYA added last night
Salt=2600ppm (2250-2750 recommended by Manufacturer)

I added CYA last night to bring it up to 80ppm, but have to wait a day or two for it to settle in for an accurate reading.

My pH basically holds for 3 days, then needs muriatic to correct. 2 seasons ago, I just started checking every Saturday and correcting to simplify things--I've got the "pattern" of my water down well through the last 4 seasons, and this is the first issue I've had. I've never had any CC in the pools history, nor any need to add anything other than CYA and Muriatic. I'll go back to checking pH every other day and correcting--this fall I'll do some partial drains to get my calcium level in check.

Thanks all for the information, Evan I'll likely try the borate "trick" as well.

[waterbear]

Here's some updated numbers (tests redone last night), I don't know where I got the first set--my apologies:

FC=typically 3-6ppm (currently 65% output on SWCG/8hrs filtering/day)
CC=0
pH=requires 3 cups of muriatic once a week to maintain 7.6
TA=180ppm
CH=710ppm
CYA=was 60ppm, more CYA added last night
Salt=2600ppm (2250-2750 recommended by Manufacturer)

I added CYA last night to bring it up to 80ppm, but have to wait a day or two for it to settle in for an accurate reading.

My pH basically holds for 3 days, then needs muriatic to correct. 2 seasons ago, I just started checking every Saturday and correcting to simplify things--I've got the "pattern" of my water down well through the last 4 seasons, and this is the first issue I've had. I've never had any CC in the pools history, nor any need to add anything other than CYA and Muriatic. I'll go back to checking pH every other day and correcting--this fall I'll do some partial drains to get my calcium level in check.

Thanks all for the information, Evan I'll likely try the borate "trick" as well.

If you can get your TA down you will see a big improvement in lowering your acid demand. In your case, with your high CH I would shoot for around 60-70 ppm.
Do this BEFORE you add the borates or the borates are not going to give you any real advantage besides the algaestatic one.

[steveinaz]

Ok. Will do.

[waterbear]

remember to monitor your FC since you will see a small decrease in chlorine demand when you raise the CYA and most likely a larger drop in chlorine demand when you finally add the borates.

[steveinaz]

Well, I've got a serious case of anal-cranium disease. Checked my CYA last night, it's in the 45-50ppm range. A trip to Walmart will fix that tonight. I have re-run all my tests, I guess some of my results were out of date. I usually run all tests in the spring, and then just test Chlorine/pH throughout the swim season. I'm also going to replace a bunch of my reagents this evening.

My pool is so easy to care for, but it's lulled me into a false sense of security. Let me get some numbers normalized, and go from there. Right now here are the numbers (tested, again, last night):

FC=3-5ppm typically
CC=0
pH=7.6 but requires 1/2 cup acid every other day to maintain
CH=710ppm
TA=180ppm
CYA=45-50ppm
Salt=2600ppm (2250-2750 recommended)
Water tmp @ testing=86 degrees

I'll bring the CYA up to 80ppm, and I'm beating down the TA. This fall I'll do a sizable drain to lower CH. I'm also going to replace the QuikChlor SWCG with an Aqua Rite XL. In spite of the numbers, the water has looked/felt great all summer; crystal clear (minus the white flakes), though I believe it was a calcium ridden salt cell that caused that glitch.